Review: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time 41mm Stainless Steel Blue Dial Reference 7900V/110A-B334
Showcasing A Versatile Travel Watch With The Prestigious Geneva Seal And Interchangeable Straps, Plus Top Three Alternatives
Travel GMT watches, including iconic models like the Rolex GMT Master 2, often suffer from a significant drawback: the absence of a quick date set function. In these watches, the crown position, typically used for setting the date, is instead allocated for adjusting the GMT hand. So setting the date requires tedious winding of the crown. Additionally, the GMT hand and 24-hour markers on the bezel are always visible, even when not traveling.
The Vacheron Constantin (VC) Overseas Dual Time elegantly solves these issues. The 41mm stainless steel model with a stunning blue dial clearly displays a second time zone on the central dial. When not traveling, the GMT hand can be discreetly hidden under the local hour hand. There is a separate pusher to adjust the date quickly, while still offering 150 meters of water resistance.
Initially hard to find, this model's availability has improved after the hype for steel sports watches subsided. With secondary market prices dropping to near retail, now is an good time to review this practical travel watch from one of Switzerland's most revered manufacturers.
A Brief History of VC Overseas Travel Models
Overseas is the luxury sports watch collection from Vacheron Constantin. The collection has gone through three generations so far:
Gen 1: 1996 to 2004
Gen 2: 2004 to 2016
Gen 3: 2016 to present
In 2006, a dual time Reference 47450 debuted as part of the Gen 2 models. It had a second time zone sub-dial at 6 o’clock and day/night indicator, but the dial looked rather cluttered.
The current Gen 3 dual time Reference 7900V replaced the Gen 2 version in 2017. It has a cleaner dial with the second time zone hand centered, able to hide discreetly under the local hour hand if desired.
The evolution shows Vacheron's constant refinement over decades to create an ideal luxury sports watch for travelers. This latest dual time model nails that goal with its legible yet versatile display.
Here are the timeline of these relevant travel models:
Gen 1 Overseas: 1994 - 2004
Gen 2 Overseas: 2004 - 2016
Dual time ref 47450V: 2006 - 2017
Gen 3 Overseas: 2016 - present
World time ref 7700V: 2016 - 2023
Dual time ref 7900V steel case blue and white dials, released in Nov 2017
Dual time ref 7900V steel case black dial, released in Nov 2018
Dual time ref 7910V “Everest” 150-piece limited edition, titanium/steel case gray dial, released in 2021
An interesting question arises: how long will the current dual time model 7900V stay in the catalog? Drawing insights from the historical timelines of previous models, we can estimate that the dual time 7900V might still have a catalog lifespan of approximately 4 to 6 years.
Intuitive Dual Time Display & Operation
An ideal travel watch displays both local time and home time. Upon arrival, the wearer simply adjusts the local hour hand to the new time zone. The home time remains fixed, indicating the best time to contact home base.
There are various design approaches for presenting home time and local time. Typically, local time is centrally displayed in a 12-hour format, maximizing readability and aligning with the time zone where the wearer currently resides.
On the other hand, there are many methods to display the second time zone (home time). Here is a summary of the ways the second time zone is usually presented:
Centrally with 24 hour markers on the bezel (or on the outermost ring of the dial)
Examples: Rolex GMT Master 2, Grand Seiko GMT SBGE205
Using a 12-hour sub-dial with a day/night indicator
Examples: Overseas Gen 2 Dual Time Ref 47450 (see above picture), JLC Master Control Geographic
Using a 24-hour sub-dial or a ring
Centrally on 12-hour dial (together with the local time)
Examples: Overseas Gen 3 Dual Time Ref 7900, Patek Philippe Travel Time
Through numerals framed within an aperture
Examples: NOMOS Tangomat GMT, Ulysse Nardin Classico Dual Time
The current Overseas Dual Time employs one of the most user-friendly methods. Reading time on a 12-hour dial is inherently simpler than on a 24-hour dial. Moreover, when there's no need for a second time zone, the GMT hand can seamlessly disappear beneath the regular hour hand—a design approach increasingly embraced by brands like Patek Philippe.
To initially set the watch, assuming the wearer is at home, align both hour hands until they overlap. Then, configure the time to match the home time, complete with the correct date and AM/PM setting. These adjustments can be effortlessly made using the crown, which has two pulled-out positions, and the date corrector.
Upon reaching the travel destination, adjusting the local hour is a breeze with the crown's first pulled-out position. The date is tied to the local time and changed automatically if needed. It's important to note that the home time and AM/PM indicator remain unchanged at this point.
This design offers a significant advantage: effortless local time adjustments when crossing time zones, and quick date setting—a notable advantage over many other travel watches like the Rolex GMT Master 2.
Movement with Geneva Seal
The third-generation Overseas was introduced in January 2016, featuring the self-winding 3-hand model 4500V. This model introduced the brand's new in-house Caliber 5100, boasting a compact size of 30mm in diameter, 4.7mm in thickness, and comprising 172 components.
To incorporate the dual time complication, Caliber 5100 was enhanced with additional modules and parts, transforming it into Caliber 5100DT for the 7900V model. This upgraded caliber measures 30mm in diameter, 6mm in thickness, and consists of an impressive 234 parts. Considering the 7900V's release in November 2017, it's safe to assume that the development work spanned nearly two years.
This modern caliber represents the pinnacle of watchmaking excellence, both in functionality and aesthetics. Its finishing is impeccable, with beautifully adorned bridges and finely crafted Geneva stripes. The 22k gold rotor is a work of art, featuring sandblasted, polished, and grained finishes along with a captivating wind rose motif.
The presence of the Geneva Seal certification assures the highest level of movement finishing. This prestigious symbol graces both the movement's main plate and the case back, guaranteeing that the watch is crafted in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, the Canton of Geneva, and meets the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship.
I love keeping track of the timing accuracy of the watches I own. With a Timegrapher, this watch was measured -2.0 seconds per day by averaging data over 6 positions.
Pros and Cons
This luxury sports watch with dual time functionality offers numerous appealing features. However, there are some drawbacks as well, at least to me. Let's delve into the pros and cons of the 7900V steel model.
7900V Pros
Intuitive dial design with high readability
Quick set second time (local time when traveling)
Quick set date
Fine movement finishing with Geneva Seal
Keeping accurate time
60 hour power reserve
Including steel bracelet, rubber strap and leather strap
Interchangeable strap system (perhaps the best in the business)
Easy fit bracelet extension 2 mm in each direction
150 meter water resistance
7900V Cons
No hacking to set precise time up to seconds
Limited dial color choices of only blue, white and black
Some color rubber straps such as the orange strap are very hard to obtain
Specifications
Here are the ket specifications of Overseas 7900V steel models:
Case material: Stainless steel
Case diameter: 41mm
Case thickness: 12.8mm
Water resistance: 150M
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 4Hz
Number of movement parts: 234
Bracelet: Stainless steel, polished/satin-finished
Straps: Calf (dark blue), Rubber (dark blue)
Certifications: Hallmark of Geneva
Price: $30,900 (2023)
Alternative Choices
In the popular category of stainless steel sports watches featuring the dual time complication, you'll find several enticing options. Here, I present my top three alternatives to the Overseas 7900V.
Rolex Sky-Dweller Steel Model - List Price: $15,900
Combining an annual calendar and dual time display within a 24-hour ring, this model boasts Rolex's most intricate caliber. It features a cleverly designed command ring control, offering a quick-set date—a notable improvement over the GMT Master 2. While it leans toward a dressier style compared to the Overseas Dual Time, the Sky-Dweller proves an excellent choice for globe-trotting business persons and watch enthusiasts.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante - List Price: $29,500
For those seeking the latest novelty, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante from Parmigiani Fleurier offers a travel watch in its most refined form. With a push of the button at 8 o'clock, the white gold hour hand advances once an hour, indicating local time at the destination. The rose gold hour hand, previously concealed beneath the white gold hand, remains stationary, denoting home time. Upon returning home, a single press of the crown button realigns both hands to the home time position. Powering this timepiece, launched in 2022, is a beautiful in-house movement with a micro-rotor.
Patek Philippe 5164A Aquanaut Travel Time - List Price: $42,580
Patek Philippe's interpretation of a steel sports watch for travel is showcased in the 5164A Aquanaut Travel Time. Functionally, it closely parallels the Overseas 7900V, with both hour hands for home and local time centrally positioned, accompanied by matching day/night indicators and a pointer date at 6 o'clock. However, the 5164A and 7900V diverge significantly in terms of dial design, making the choice a matter of personal preference. It's worth noting that the 5164A exudes a more casual style and comes with a rubber strap
Final Thoughts
I used to own an Overseas self-winding 4500V with a black dial, but I eventually decided to part with it. The 3-hand dial appeared a bit too plain for my taste, and the absence of hacking functionality was a drawback. However, I soon found myself missing the exquisite movement and the versatility afforded by the stunning steel bracelet and rubber/leather straps.
So, when the opportunity arose to do a trade with a collector friend to acquire an Overseas Dual Time boutique exclusive with a striking blue dial, I eagerly pulled the trigger. With the assistance of a Timegrapher, I no longer needed the hacking function to accurately measure timing. I must say, I'm extremely pleased with my decision.
The world of mechanical travel watches is brimming with options, encompassing dual time models and world time models alike. The VC Overseas dual time 7900V unquestionably stands out as a top choice, thanks to its sensible design, unparalleled craftsmanship, rich heritage, and user-friendly features. Plus, it sports a fitting name to boot. While the blue dial version remains highly sought-after, it's becoming more accessible. This watch is the ideal companion for both everyday wear and international travels, whether they're for business or pleasure.
Great review - I’ve not seen one in the flesh, but it looks terrific. And I’ve just looked online to see they’re selling at under retail right now...very tempting! Thank you for your excellent review, as always...🙏