Which Young Independent Brands Might be the Next Akrivia?
Showcasing eight incredibly talented independent watchmakers who are on the rise
For the last few years, a question has been buzzing around among watch lovers: who's gonna be the next F.P. Journe? I found myself totally caught up in this question and even cranked out a few newsletter articles about it. However, the guesswork ended following the Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction XVI on May 24, 2023. An Akrivia timepiece, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain, sold for an astounding $929K, nearly 15 times its original price. Since its launch five years ago, this model has been a case of love at first sight for many collectors. They had held onto this model so tightly that it marked the first time this watch had appeared in an auction. As a two-time winner of the GPHG Men's Watch Prize in 2018 and 2022, Akrivia is now recognized as the most promising brand poised to attain the stature of F.P. Journe one day.
With an annual output less than that of F.P. Journe, acquiring new Akrivia watches is an improbable feat for most. Yet, the booming market and keen collector interest have birthed numerous new watch brands. So, which of these young independent brands could be the next Akrivia? After consulting seasoned collectors, I've compiled a list. These brands, impressive in their daring designs and solid craftsmanship, have provided rich insights into the work of these talented watchmakers. I'm eager to share my findings below, presenting the promising brands in alphabetical order by the brand's last names.
Please do leave a comment if you have a favorite brand to add to the list.
Petermann Bédat
Watchmakers: Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat
Website: https://www.petermann-bedat.ch
Prior experience: A. Lange & Söhne, Renaud Papi
Workshop location: Renens, Switzerland
Industry recognitions & media coverage:
Notable models:
The co-founders, after being classmates at a watchmaking school in Geneva, further honed their skills at A. Lange & Söhne for three years. They later returned to Switzerland and were afforded the opportunity to collaborate with Dominique Renaud of Renaud Papi on a new movement. Their first model, the 1967 (64,000 CHF), was a resounding success, even winning a GPHG award. Deliveries of this model are expected to continue until 2024. Their second offering, the high-end 2941 chronograph, was released this year in a limited series of 10 pieces. With only three pieces being produced each year, delivery is set to extend into 2026. In 2025, a new three-hand model, expected to hold a broader appeal, is set to be released. Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, both immensely talented and diligent, are indeed making all the right moves. Given their youth, the possibilities for their future are truly boundless.
Krayon
Watchmaker: Rémi Maillat
Website: https://www.krayon.ch/index.php
Prior experiences: Cartier, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier
Workshop location: Switzerland
Industry recognitions & media coverage:
Notable Models:
Krayon's Everywhere watch achieves something truly extraordinary: by inputting your latitude, longitude, and the correct date, it will accurately display the times of sunrise and sunset, along with the duration of daylight and nighttime hours for any location in the world. This groundbreaking feature requires about 600 components, an awe-inspiring accomplishment. Krayon's Anywhere model offers a simpler function, calculating sunrise and sunset times for a fixed location on Earth, which can be set by the watchmaker.
Krayon's founder, Rémi Maillat, distinguishes himself through his innovative vision and unwavering determination. He has spared no effort or expense in designing these sophisticated models, emphasizing exceptional finishing and precision. His work significantly pushes the boundaries of watchmaking artistry and technology. Two major wins from the GPHG competitions highlighted the recognition from the industry peers.
Ataelier Haute Complication
Watchmaker: Vladimir Victor Negault
Website: https://ataelier.ch/en/
Prior experiences: 14 years at F.P. Journe
Workshop location: Switzerland
Industry recognitions & media coverage:
Notable models:
I was first introduced to the brand by a collector friend who was lucky enough to secure one of the 99-piece limited edition Dual Time watches. As a lover of travel watches, I was instantly smitten with the design. At $8000, the price is quite reasonable and is the lowest among the watches discussed in this article. However, as this young brand becomes more widely known among watch enthusiasts, prices will undoubtedly increase.
Vladimir Negault first crossed paths with Mr. F.P. Journe in 1994 while working on a project for Cartier. From 2008 to 2018, he served on the R&D team at F.P. Journe, focusing on caliber development. In 2018, he branched out to start his own brand and began creating various designs. The first model, Dual Time, was introduced in 2022, while the second model - a tourbillon with a half-hour chiming mechanism - is set to be released in 2024.
Sylvain Pimaud
Watchmaker: Sylvain Pimaud
Website: https://www.sylvain-pinaud.com
Prior experiences: Franck Muller, Carl F. Bucherer
Workshop location: Sainte-Croix, Switzerland
Industry recognitions & media coverage:
Notable models:
I first encountered the Sylvain Pimaud brand when it was awarded the esteemed GPHG Horological Revelation Prize in 2022. This award recognizes an outstanding timepiece from a young brand, defined as one that has been commercially producing models for less than ten years. Sylvain Pimaud, the watchmaker behind the brand, is in his forties and brings a wealth of experience from his tenure at Franck Muller and Carl F. Bucherer. He is a candidate member of AHCI, the most prestigious organization of independent watchmakers.
In 2019, Sylvain Pimaud introduced his inaugural model, a one-button chronograph with dial skeletonization. The piece made use of the gear train and escapement from the ETA Unitas 6497, while the bridges, base plate, keyless works, and balance were meticulously handcrafted. The second model, dubbed the Origine, debuted in 2022 and clinched the GPHG award. This time-only piece is distinguished by the balance and escapement displayed on the dial. However, what truly sets this watch apart is the exquisite hand-finishing of the movement.
Hervé Schlüchter
Watchmaker: Hervé Schlüchter
Website: https://www.herve-schluchter.ch/en/
Previous experiences: Philippe Dufour, Bovet
Workshop location: Bienne, Switzerland
Media coverage:
Notable models:
Hervé Schlüchter was featured in a New York Times article earlier this year, titled "Swiss Watchmaker Is Living His Dream". This dream was about becoming independent and crafting his own watches. From 2000 to 2016, Hervé honed his skills at Bovet, rising through the ranks to become the factory's technical director and eventually its general manager. Prior to establishing his own workshop, he sought out the expertise of Mr. Philippe Dufour to deepen his knowledge of classical watchmaking, finishing, and decoration.
Just three days ago, he unveiled his very first model, L'Essentiel, an absolutely breathtaking timepiece. It's a regulator, with separate indicators for hours, minutes, and seconds. Uniquely, the hour is shown by a 24-hour rotating disc which also carries hidden Latin words: Hodie Nunc (Today Now) and Amor & Gratia (Love & Gratitude).
The brand-new Caliber HS-01 movement powers this masterpiece, composed of 189 components and offering a 60-hour power reserve. It includes a Swiss lever escapement, a counterpoised 'moustache' lever, Wolf's teeth on the ratchet and crown wheel, and a Guillaume-type 'Homage' balance wheel.
J.N. Shapiro
Watchmaker: Josh N. Shapiro
Website: https://www.jnshapirowatches.com
Workshop location: Los Angeles, USA
Media coverage:
Notable models:
Among the watchmakers highlighted in this article, Josh N. Shapiro stands out as the sole representative based outside Switzerland. Shapiro, , based in Los Angeles, is recognized as one of the top independent watchmakers in America. His brand, J.N. Shapiro Watches, is renowned for its 'Infinity' series of watches, featuring beautiful engine-turned dials, which are painstakingly handcrafted using traditional guilloché techniques. These pieces perfectly encapsulate Shapiro's commitment to classic watchmaking artistry blended with a unique, modern aesthetic.
On May 22, 2023, Shapiro introduced the Resurgence collection, marking a new level of complexity in dial design and showcasing a completely in-house movement. The Resurgence series offers a multi-layered dial in customizable colors, composed of separately engine-turned sectors. These sectors exhibit an array of patterns, including barleycorn and Shapiro's signature Infinity weave. Each layer is made from a distinct piece of metal, which is individually engine-turned, trimmed, and meticulously milled to ensure a flawless fit. The subdial, impressively, is adorned with a miniaturized moiré pattern typically used for the entire dial.
Danièla Dufour
Media coverages
Danièla Dufour may not have her own brand yet, but she could well be on the path to becoming an independent watchmaker in her own right. As the daughter of Mr. Philippe Dufour, widely considered today's preeminent watchmaker, she has an impressive pedigree. Having graduated from watchmaking school, Danièla is currently working in her father's workshop. Remarkably, she handcrafted a Simplicity watch under her father's guidance by the age of 20. Her genuine passion for watchmaking suggests that Danièla is destined to produce outstanding work. She's certainly a talent to keep an eye on over the next decade.
Last words
It's been a pleasure sharing these eight incredibly talented, emerging watchmakers with you. I've been lucky to exchange emails and have a few Instagram chats with some of them. Now, which of these brands could be the next Akrivia? Honestly, I'm not sure. But I can tell you that each of these watchmakers has an insane amount of passion for what they do. They're not just massively talented; they put in serious sweat and effort. This is nothing but a win-win for the watch industry and for watch lovers all around the globe. I'm crossing my fingers for each brand and their dedicated teams to achieve even more awesome successes.
The next one will be a matter of relationships and back room deals. Making it “big time” is a socially-driven marketing game... nothing to do with the actual watches or quality