Three Watches in My Collection Discontinued After Watches and Wonders 2024
While watch collectors and enthusiasts closely followed the novelties unveiled from Geneva during the recently concluded Watches and Wonders, there were also interesting updates – the discontinuation of certain models. The fate of discontinued models can vary, sparking either increased or decreased desirability among collectors. There were intense rumors about the discontinuation of Rolex Pepsi, which didn’t happen. Good luck guessing what the Crown will do!
Unexpectedly, three watches in my collection faced discontinuation. One was succeeded by a newer iteration, while the other two vanished entirely. So, without further ado, here are the three timepieces no longer available from their respective manufacturers.
Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar in Stainless Steel Case and Black Dial Reference Q1308470
I acquired this JLC timepiece in 2019, the only perpetual calendar I've ever owned. This model line was first introduced in 2013, with the black-dialed version I own being added in 2016. The watch gained fame by appearing in "Doctor Strange" in 2016 and its 2022 sequel. This perpetual calendar is remarkably easy to set, using one pusher to advance the date, day, month, moon phase, and year simultaneously. The drawback of this simplicity is that if you haven't worn the watch for a long time, it will take numerous pushes to catch up to the current date and month. The case diameter is 39mm, while the thickness is 9.2mm, with a power reserve of 38 hours.
At this year's Watches and Wonders, JLC launched three new models for this line, including a stainless steel model with a silver dial. The most significant improvement is the power reserve, now rated at 70 hours. It seems that 70 hours is the state-of-the-art benchmark, as both Rolex and AP have upgraded their movements to this spec in recent years. Minor tweaks to the dial and case design render the new model a bit sleeker and more legible.
As the silver model is the only stainless steel option for perpetual calendar, those preferring a black dial with the new movement are out of luck. However, JLC will likely update the black dial model with the new movement eventually.
Rolex Datejust 36mm Stainless Steel in Green Palm Dial Ref 126200-0019
At Watches and Wonders, Rolex discontinued all Datejust models with palm and fluted motif dials, along with the Yacht-Master II, white gold "Le Mans" Daytona, and Sea-Dweller Deepsea. The news was a shock, as the palm and fluted motif dials were merely introduced three years ago. I was quite fortunate to own a green palm after an 11-month wait.
It's a fun watch to wear, especially for more casual occasions. I selected the smooth bezel for a slightly more low-key look, though the jubilee bracelet still makes it quite eye-catching. Now that this model has been discontinued, I will undoubtedly treasure it more.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Nacre in rose gold case and mother-of-pearl dial
I first heard the news from a watch chat group, then confirmed it on the F.P. Journe website – all the Boutique Edition Nacre models have been moved from "Current Collections" to "Retrospective Collections." The Nacre Collection was unveiled in 2012, and I wrote an article to mark its 10-year anniversary two years ago. These rare and exquisite timepieces had a good run.
I placed an order with an authorized dealer in 2019 for the simplest model in the Nacre Collection, the Chronomètre Souverain Nacre in a rose gold case, and received it in 2020. In mid-2021, a contact at the F.P. Journe Boutique informed me that only 25 pieces of the CS Nacre in rose gold had ever been produced by then. I included this anecdote in the 10th anniversary blog post, which the Christie's lot essay cited when they auctioned this exact watch in 2023, stating: "Extremely exclusive, it is believed that only 25 pieces in pink gold were produced by 2021."
In December 2023, I had the opportunity to visit the F.P. Journe manufactures in Geneva, including the dial maker Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG). While touring the CDG workshops, I noticed a poster on the wall depicting a CS with a mother-of-pearl dial, the exact model in my collection. The workflow to process and finish the mother-of-pearl dials is delicate and challenging. It must have been a milestone for the dial-making team to fine-tune and nail the workflow for the Nacre Collection under F.P Journe's stringent standards.
Well, with the Nacre Collection ending its run, even more enchanting novelties will be waiting for watch lovers in the near future. Let's cherish what we have today and look forward to wonderful new creations.
Like your choices and range. As long as the brands keep going you should be safe when it comes to service etc... I like your Doc Strange perpetual particularly and it would have been a buy for me if I did not already own several QPs already.
Love that Nacre... let's hope the replacement is just as lovely.