The Epic F.P. Journe Only Watch Timepieces - Blue Dials, Tantalum Cases and All New Movements
From 2015 to 2023, the premier charity auction served as a platform for Mr Journe to demonstrate his unparalleled watchmaking prowess, turning awe-inspiring prototypes into stunning production models.
On June 29, 2023, Only Watch, the biennial philanthropic watch auction, presented 62 exciting lots from 72 distinguished watchmakers and brands, all set to be auctioned in November this year. This auction stands shoulder-to-shoulder with the renowned GPHG as one of the watch industry's most eagerly anticipated events. The Chronomètre Furtif Bleu, a unique contribution from F.P. Journe, was immediately noteworthy. With its blue dial, tantalum case and bracelet, along with an eye-catching orange center second, it bears some resemblance to the legendary Chronomètre Bleu. However, this piece is distinct, showcasing a new caliber, the 1522.
A fascinating revelation came to light in regard to F.P. Journe's commitment to Only Watch. Dating back to 2015, Mr. Journe devised an ambitious strategy for his Only Watch contributions. All F.P. Journe's entries were to feature blue dials and tantalum cases, creating an exclusive collection of unique pieces. Later, Mr. Journe decided to develop new movements for these watches, potentially laying the groundwork for future production models. As a result, the Journe Only Watch pieces serve as tantalizing previews of upcoming creations for keen collectors.
So let's sit back, savor a relaxing drink, and appreciate the exclusive ensemble that is Mr. Journe's Only Watch Collection.
2015 Toubillon Souverain Bleu Caliber 1403 CHF 550K
Mr. Journe was inspired to participate in the Only Watch charity auction by a collector friend. For his first submission, due to time constraints, he couldn't design a completely new watch. Thus, he chose to re-envision an existing model using a unique case material and dial color. The model selected was the Tourbillon Souverain, initially released in 1999. An updated version of this model won the grand prize at the 2004 GPHG, notable as the only tourbillon with constant force remontoire and dead-beat seconds at that time.
The case was constructed from tantalum, an extremely hard metal rarely used in watch cases. The tantalum case presented a unique interplay of gray and blue hues. For the dial, Mr. Journe chose a vibrant blue, a color particularly cherished by watch enthusiasts. The design choices for the case material and dial color were possibly influenced by the success and popularity of the Chronomètre Bleu.
2017 Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante Bleu Caliber 1517 CHF 1,150K
The 2017 entry for Only Watch marked Journe's initial foray into creating a rattrapante, or split-second chronograph, a complication that permits the user to record two simultaneous time intervals. This intricate feature is typically reserved for high-end, luxury timepieces, proving especially useful in timing events like laps that require multiple, simultaneous measurements.
Derived from the French word "rattraper," meaning "to catch up," the term "rattrapante" succinctly describes the mechanism's function. Unlike a standard chronograph, which possesses a single seconds hand, a rattrapante chronograph boasts two.
Upon activating the chronograph, both hands begin to move in sync, giving the impression of a singular hand. However, pressing the rattrapante pusher halts one hand, enabling the recording of a time interval while the other hand persists in its movement. Pressing the pusher once again allows the stationary hand to swiftly "catch up" to its moving counterpart.
The Monopoussoir feature, meaning single pusher, manifests in the button located at two o'clock, which performs three functions: start, stop, and reset. Another button, positioned at four o'clock, acts as the rattrapante activator. The watch case is crafted from tantalum, and the dial sports the same blue hue as the previous Only Watch entry.
Journe's inaugural split-second chronograph realized a remarkable CHF 1,150K at auction, an accomplishment that subsequently led to the release of a production model two years later. This new Linesport iteration introduced a date display at 6 o'clock and was encased in lightweight titanium for comfortable wear. This specific model is no longer in the catalogue today.
2019 Astronomic Blue Caliber 1619 CHF 1,800K
In 2019, Mr. Journe raised the bar by creating an astronomical watch for Only Watch. The Astronomic Blue emerged as Journe's most complex timepiece to date, boasting 18 complications and a movement composed of 758 parts. For detailed illustrations of these 18 complications, please refer to the attached images (source).
The Astronomic Blue was subsequently auctioned for an impressive CHF 1,800K. Following the auction, a production model was incorporated into the Classique Collection. However, only a limited number of these intricate timepieces are crafted each year.
2021 FFC Blue Caliber 1300.3 CHF 4,500K
Journe's 2021 Only Watch submission created a sensation in the watch industry and among watch enthusiasts worldwide. This unique automaton watch, displaying the 12 hours with a blue hand, was a remarkable collaboration with renowned filmmaker Mr. Francis Ford Coppola, hence the piece's name, FFC Blue.
Mr. Coppola, an owner of an F.P. Journe CHRONOMÈTRE À RÉSONANCE — a gift from his wife in 2009 — hosted Mr. Journe at his Napa Valley winery estate in 2012. During a casual dinner conversation, Mr. Coppola proposed an intriguing question: could a hand be used to tell time?
Mr. Journe found this idea captivating and began developing a design two years later. Working in concert with Mr. Coppola, they established a way to indicate the 12 hours using five fingers on one hand. The comprehensive development of this extraordinary timepiece spanned seven years. The model submitted to the Only Watch auction was prototype #4, as the preceding three iterations were unsuccessful.
This revolutionary timepiece was housed in a tantalum case with the hand in blue. It achieved a record breaking CHF 4.5M for the charity in 2021. Earlier this year, a production model, aptly named FFC, was launched. This model comes with a platinum case with the hand in gray. As one might expect, only a limited number of these pieces will ever be crafted.
2023 Chronomètre Furtif Bleu Caliber 1522
The original inspiration for the Only Watch timepieces, the "entry-level" Chronomètre Bleu, is known for its tantalum case and blue dial combo. For 2023, Mr. Journe decided to revisit this popular piece, crafting a new iteration that merges the elegance of the Chronomètre Bleu with the sporty appeal of the Linesport collection.
A brand new Caliber 1522 was developed specifically for this piece. Surprisingly, this marks the first instance of a Journe watch featuring a center second hand, rendered in an eye-catching shade of orange. The reverse side of the watch reveals a delightfully detailed moon phase indicator and power reserve indicator integrated into the back of movement. If you find the moon image particularly realistic, it's because it was based on a NASA image. The neatly finished movement, made of red gold, echoes that of the Chronomètre Bleu or Chronomètre Souverain.
The dial, fashioned from translucent blue Grand Feu enamel, features laser-engraved matte numerals and tracks. The term "email," displayed at 6 o'clock, is the French word for enamel. The elusive appearance of the numerals and the stealthy aesthetic of the dial embody the meaning of "Furtif," the French word for stealthy or elusive.
Adding another unique element, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu's bracelet is made of tantalum, matching the case. This is an industry first, as a tantalum bracelet had not been attempted before this timepiece.
Consistent with Mr. Journe's grand plan, this watch, equipped with the new caliber 1522, is expected to transition into a production model within the Linesport collection one day.
Last Words
In a recent interview, F.P. Journe stated, "We only participate in Only Watch. This is the real GPHG!" There's some truth in this statement — the absence of powerhouses like F.P. Journe and Patek Philippe from the GPHG somewhat diminishes its representation of cutting-edge horology. Only Watch, on the other hand, has become the platform of choice for watchmakers and brands to showcase their vision, craftsmanship, and distinctive appeal. It is here that enthusiasts can witness the boundless creativity of esteemed masters such as Mr. Journe.
The Chronomètre Furtif Bleu, Journe's latest entry, is anticipated to perform well in the upcoming auction scheduled for November 5th, 2023. Within a few years, we might see a production model of this striking piece. Moreover, we can eagerly anticipate Mr. Journe's submissions for 2025, 2027 and beyond. There is indeed much to look forward to!
Indeed! 👏