Six Watches That Should be in the 2022 GPHG Nominations
Like clockwork, on September 1st, the nominated timepieces appeared on the GPHG website. GPHG is the annual competition of watches launched from May prior year to October this year. It is often compared to the Oscars Awards for the movie industry. There are in total 15 categories in GPHG. The 650 GPHG academy members would vote in the first round to select the nominated watches. For this year, there are 254 entries and the list of competing watches is here. The 90 nominated watches are here, 6 in each category. The final winners in each category will be declared on November 10, 2022.
GPHG is a competition followed closely by the industry and watch lovers all over the world. We are so happy to see our beloved brands taking the top spots. We are quite sad to witness our favorites dropping out of the races. This year's nomination revealing a few days ago was no exception.
I will put together six watches I thought should qualify to go into the second round but didn't make it. Some of them may fare better if they had entered the competition in a different category. It is an observation and guess that I would love to hear your comments. So, here are the list of watches.
Moritz Grossmann Universalzeit
Moritz Grossmann is a high-end independent watchmaker based out of Glashütte, Germany. Universalzeit is one of the most interesting and innovative watches released recently, in my opinion. It created a new category between a GMT watch and a worldtimer. It displays seven timezones on a world map in the dial simutaneously.
A new calibre 100.7 was developed by Grossmann’s designers in the manufactory. A disc connected to a 24-tooth ratchet wheel moves beneath the dial. Each number, 1 to 24, is arranged at an angle of 15 degrees across a total of six rings. When the minute hand moves over the 12, the ratchet wheel and with it the disc move forward by one position. The disc is precisely positioned by a ratchet spring. the hours are aligned horizontally in the windows, making it easy for the wearer to read them. This is due to the optimal alignment of the numerals on the disc.
The main time hour hand is corrected via the pusher mechanism at 10 o’clock. The hour hand can be moved backwards and forwards separately in hourly increments. This does not change the time display in the windows.
GPHG category:
Participating in: Mechanical Exception
More suitable: Men's Complication
All 6 nominated watches in Mechanical Exception showcase the design complexity in the dial. These include the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary and Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Tourbillon. Universalzeit's elegant dial seems a bit out of place within this group. On the other hand, the nominated watches in Men's Complication include a worldtimer by Hermes and a GMT by Parmigiani Fleurier. This should be a better category for Universalzeit to compete and stand out with its novel design.
Fears Archival 1930 Small Seconds
In 1846, A young watchmaker named Edwin Fear establishes a workshop and showroom in Bristol, UK. Fears as a brand continued to thrive through the post-war years, until closing its doors in 1976. The great-great-great-grandson of Edwin Fear re-launched his family’s company in 2016.
Fears archival 1930 small seconds was based on a Fears rectangular model from 1930s. The movement inside was from a batch of "new-old-stock" ETA 717 movements dated back to 1935. It is such an amazing creation with history and charm! The limited release sold out fairly quickly.
A big disappointment that this intriguing timepiece created with love and passion by the Fears team didn't get nominated. In my humble opinion, they would have a better chance in a different category.
GPHG category:
Participating in: “Petite Aiguille"
More suitable: Iconic
There are 10 entries for the Iconic category, but 23 entries in the “Petite Aiguille" category. GPHG academy members might get tired of the usual suspects competing in this category. The Fears archival 1930 small seconds would have been such a refreshing candidate in Iconic!
Minase Masterpieces Urushi Makie - Komon
Launched in the early 2000s, Minase is an independent Japanese watch brand. Minase produces some 500 watches per year, which is in a sweet spot for many seasoned collectors. Every timepiece is inspired by and pays tribute to Japanese culture. The watches are known for the superior case/bracelet polishing and exquisite dial and case designs.
Minase submitted two watches for this year's GPHG. Unfortunately, none of them made it to the second round. I was rooting for Minase and was quite disappointed with the results. More watch lovers need to get to know this brand and their wonderful timepieces. GPHG would have been a great venue to uncover the gems and bring Minase to the world stage.
Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” – SJX Edition Two
Watch enthusiasts following GPHG closely should know Kudoke well. The German independent brand won the “Petite Aiguille" in 2019 with its beautiful Kukoke 2.
The Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” was the fruit of a collaboration with SJX and Lee Yuen-Rapati, a Canadian illustrator. What stands out immediately is the 12 Zodiac symbols on the dial. Each hour emblem represents a zodiac sign while incorporating the respective Roman numeral. Three, for instance, is represented by Cancer with “III” within, while ten is Aquarius containing a “X”. And “12” takes the form of the sign of Aries replacing the moon on the day-and-night disc.
The engraving on the movement continues the same theme and aesthetic. We may see symbols of the solar systems here - Sun, Moon, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn and Earth. There are many stars as well to fill the movement surface.
To me, “Zodiac” edition is a totally new design of the dial and movement decoration, although the watch was based on the baseline Kudoke 2. It is such a whimsical design that we simply don't see it often in today's watch scene. What a pity this watch failed to get selected in the first round of GPHG! It was in the right category though, "Artistic Crafts”, as it is pure art.
Lyrique is a new kid on the booming watchmaking block. The leader is Prof Bill Sanders who is well-known for his prolific WatchArtSci YouTube channel. The Lyrique Group consists of 51 watch devotees from 16 countries. The team endeavored to create the best watch around CHF 7K by the best Swiss designers and suppliers. Please see Bill's video here for an in-depth recount of the project.
Let's see their strong lineup:
Customized movement, AGH-6801, by Agenhor
Teardrop-belted case produced by Voutilainen & Cattin SA
Unique observatorie hands by Fiedler
A sub-dial at eight-thirty on a Metalem lacquer dial
A hand-made strap by Protexo and buckle by Boucledor
Designer: Matthieu Allégre, Bureau de Design
Indeed, it would be a miracle for an unknown brand like Lyrique to win in a very competitive “Petite Aiguille" category. However, the top quality and refreshing design deserved a ticket to the second round. Let’s wait for Lyrique Étude No. 2 and No. 3 then!
To conclude, big congratulations to the winners going to next round who have produced 90 outstanding watches! In the meantime, let's not forget all the great efforts by many other talented creators and artisans. This is perhaps the best of time for watchmaking in recent history. The interest in mechanical watches is at an all-time high. For the makers who didn't see their watches get nominated, please keep up the good work. Let's try again next year! Your ingenious work and creations will not be overlooked. Watch enthusiasts and collectors will cheer you on and root for your ultimate success.
Every year that MG has a nominations-worthy watch, they get passed over. This year with the brilliant Universalzeit, it happened again, and while those in the same category were certainly worthy of nomination, the Moritz Grossmann Universalzeit was a bit worthier.