Review of Rolex GMT-Master II "Root Beer" in Rose Gold and Steel
The model launched in 1955 is still the most desirable travel watch today and totally worth the wait
It was a big fulfillment four years in the making. I finally put a brand new Rolex GMT-Master II on my wrist. All the persistent inquires and long waits had paid off. Words failed me to express the extreme happiness and joy.
A Long Road to "Unobtanium"
My pursue of this highly sought-after watch started in 2018. At the Baselworld that year, Rolex released four new GMT-Master II models. An iconic blue-red "Pepsi" in steel with reference 126710BLRO. A stunning dual-tone "Root Beer" in steel and rose gold with reference 126711CHNR. Two more models in rose gold and white gold. Inside was a new calibre 3285 with 70 hour of power reserve. These Rolex novelties were the biggest stars of the show.
As someone who loves travels, I fell in love with the new GMT-Master II instantly. Being a watch enthusiast starting to collect watches, I set my sight on the Pepsi GMT as my first Rolex. I was in for a rude awakening as Rolex sports models were the "unobtanium" in the watch collecting world.
I decided instead to get a Tudor Black Bay GMT "Pepsi" launched at the same Baselworld. It was a very nice GMT and I got to scratch an itch for a while. I still longed for a Rolex GMT Master II and tried to talk to any Rolex ADs I could find. An AD in Asia demanded a bundled deal that I needed to spend $75K to become a VIP customer first. Another AD offered a Milgauss instead, I didn't take it (I did have some regret later).
There was once a unworn dual-tone yellow gold and steel GMT Master II available at a grey market dealer. It was an attractive choice as there was no mark-up in price. But, I preferred the 70-hour of power reserve only available in the new 3285 calibre. Another dealer offered an alternative, a Yacht-Master 40mm. I still wanted the GMT.
Then in early 2021, a new Rolex boutique opened in a mega-mall near me. I asked for a GMT again and was offered a no-date Submariner. This was the new model released in 2020 with an updated calibre. I took it without any hesitation this time, thanking God for my good fortune. A beautiful relationship with this boutique started that day.
I would stop by this Rolex boutique whenever I visited the mall. The store manger Clay would recognize me even with my mask on. He knew that I would be a super happy man if I could get hold of either a Pepsi, Batman, or Root-Beer. Fourteen months since that fateful Submariner encounter, I got a call from Clay. He asked me to book a time to visit the boutique.
After we sat down, Clay explained to me that he tried very much but only managed to get me a dual-tone Datejust. Seeing me confused, he said that the watch needed to be tried on to see how good a choice it was. He asked me to close my eyes and then put on the watch on my wrist. After I opened my eyes, it was a stunning "Root Beer" GMT! Clay almost tricked me but now I was elated!
The "Root Beer" GMT to me is a more beautiful watch than either "Pepsi" or "Batman". It is a perfect timepiece with every details meticulously crafted. I was so happy that a pursue started four years ago had come to the finishing line. The "unobtanium" watch became a reality. "Wear it in good health", Clay told me as I left the store.
A brief history of Rolex GMT Master II
Rolex founder, Mr. Hans Wilsdorf ( (3/22/1881 – 7/6/1960), was a "frequent flyer" during his time. He travelled across the world to meet with business partners and clients. He was asked by Pan Am in 1953 to design a dual time watch for the airline pilots. At that time, Rolex's collection only included Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, Submariner and Explorer.
Mr. Wilsdorf took on the task himself, came up with the idea, and sent the design to the Rolex team. One year later, the first GMT Master was released. With this design, there was an extra 24-hour hand moving in sync with the 12-hour hand. The rotatable bezel with 24 markers provided a reference for the second time zone. The first model had a bezel in blue and red, indicating day and night. A nickname "Pepsi" was aptly chosen.
A major upgrade in 1982 ushered in the stage for "GMT Master II". With a new calibre 3085, the local time could be adjusted without stopping the watch. Wearers may change local time at destination forward or backward by 1 hour quickly. This is a "true GMT" as watch enthusiasts like to call it.
One trade-off is that the quick-set date function is not available now. There are only two pull-out positions for the crown. The date is set by winding the hour hand many rounds. This drawback must have bothered the Rolex designers for some time. The solution came with the Sky-Dweller (GMT & annual calendar in one). A ring command bezel provides three positions to change time, local hour and date.
It has been almost 7 decades since the first launch of Rolex GMT Master. It is one of the most iconic Rolex watches, together with Submariner and Daytona. "Pepsi", "Coke", "Batman", "Batgirl" and "Root Beer" are the fun nicknames for these popular models.
Current Generation of GMT Master II
The latest generation of GMT Master II was launched in 2018 with a brand new calibre 3285. A major improvement is 70 hours of power reserve. Another impressive specification is a timing precision of -2/+2 sec/day, after casting. No doubt that this calibre represents the state-of-the-art of the mechanical watch technology. Note that the new Explorer II is powered by calibre 3285 as well.
In the current lineup of GMT Master II in 2022, there are 6 distinct models, as shown below.
Stainless Steel
126710BLRO "Pepsi" (BLRO = Bleu-Rouge or Blue-Red)
126710BLNR "Batman" (BLNR = Bleu-Noir or Blue-Black)
126720VTNR "Sprite" (VTNR = Verte-Noir or Green-Black)
Steel and Rose Gold (dual-tone)
126711CHNR "Root Beer" (CHNR = Chocolate-Noir or Brown-Black)
Precious metals
126719BLRO "Pepsi" white gold (BLRO = Bleu-Rouge or Blue-Red)
126715CHNR "Root Beer" rose gold (CHNR = Chocolate-Noir or Brown-Black)
Each model is quite unique as there are 4 bezel designs and 4 case materials to choose from. The "Root Beer" GMT stands out as the only model with the dual-tone case and bracelet.
"Root Beer" GMT with Rolesor and Brown/Black Bezel
Combination of gold and steel to create a unique look and feel is a Rolex signature started in 1930s. Rolex even created and trademarked a new term "Rolesor" for bi-metal material. In the "Root Beer" model's case, the rolesor refers to steel and Everose, Rolex's unique rose gold.
Rolex produces all gold and platinum in-house. Unlike normal rose gold, Everose contains bronze and platinum. The result is a unique tint and harder surface. For the "Root Beer" GMT, the bezel (except the surface), the crown and the center links of the bracelet are all rose gold. On the dial, the four hands and hour markers are made of rose gold too. The rose gold and stainless steel match perfectly to project a luxurious and shiny look. The dazzling design is quintessential Rolex and what makes Rolex so deireable.
On the surface of the Everose bezel is the ceramic ring made of Rolex's proprietary Cerachrom. There are 24 hour graduations on the bezel which is half brown and half black, indicating day and night. The brown and black bezel is of course where the nick-name "Root Beer" comes from. The brown color goes very well with the rose gold hands and the moulded numerals and graduations. What could we ask for more? The dial design together with rotating bezel and dual-tone bracelet are absolutely stunning! A real beauty to behold!
Hands-on experience
The 40mm diameter and a clasp with extension link made the "Root-Beer" GMT very comfortable to wear. The watch feels a bit heavier than my all-steel submariner. The display of local time and reference time are very clear. This is possible thanks to the prominent hands and distinct hour markers. The cyclops lens facilitates the reading of date at a glance. You will appreciate it more when you get older.
The setting of time is easy if you get the order right. Set the reference time (home time) first by placing the GMT hand and minute hand at the right positions. This is done with the crown pulled out two positions. Then use the quick local hour adjuster to set the local hour (crown pulled out one position).
With a bidirectional rotating bezel, we may track time at a third time-zone. I have not found this feature too useful to be honest. Perhaps one day I will find a way to use it.
I'd love to track the timing errors, especially when I get a new watch. I usually use an iOS app called WatchTracker to do so. I would take 1-2 measurements per day. The app will fit a straight line over the data to determine the timing performance. The timing error of my "Root Beer" GMT is -0.3 sec/day measured over 2 weeks. What an incredible performance for a mechanical watch! The precision is well within the Rolex spec of -2/+2 sec/day.
I did contribute to this marvelous timing precision in a small way. Rolex movement usually runs a bit faster with dial-up (or down) and runs a bit slower with crown-up (or down). As this watch is a bit slower, I would leave it dial-up during the evening to catch up a little bit.
Patience and Persistence in watch collecting
The Rolex GMT Master II "Root Beer" is a wonderful timepiece. It is hard to get a new piece at the retail stores, due to the strong demand. But we should not give up. It takes patience and persistence. It takes relationship building and the key is the love for watches. The long wait often would add to the excitement and joy when the timepiece finally arrives.
The "Root Beer" is not just pretty, but a highly capable tool watch for world travels. I long for the opportunity to put it into good use, as we are able to return to travel across time-zones. I'm sure that many fond memories will be made with this outstanding travel timepiece.