Review: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm Silver Dial Ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08
The Latest Iteration of the Royal Oak 3-Hand Automatic Model: An Iconic Beauty Inside and Out
Collecting watches can be a thrilling hobby, with the need to make quick decisions based on limited information, or the requirement to exercise patience for extended periods with no guarantee of success. It's a hobby that tests one's patience, persistence, and true passion. Here is the story of my four-year pursuit of the foundational piece in the iconic Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak family.
After searching my email archive, I confirmed that I started bombarding AP boutiques with inquiries in February 2019. Just one month before that, AP had released the 15500, a new Royal Oak three-hand automatic model with a brand new movement. With its stunning appearance, modern movement, rich history, and relative affordability compared to other complicated Royal Oaks, the 15500 became my grail piece instantly.
It turned out that too many people were after the 15500, and AP's annual production of all models in 2020 was only 40K. To spare you all the disappointment and frustration, let's fast forward to May 2022. During a lunch meeting with three watch enthusiasts, one of them had a brand new AP 15500 on his wrist, with a stunning white/silvery dial. It was an incredible experience to put my grail watch on my wrist (see the photo below). My friend is more than just a watch enthusiast; he has even started a new brand to create watches designed by himself. He truly deserved to own this stunning piece that is part of a 50-year legend. From that day on, I also knew that a white dial would be my favorite.
My friend kindly offered to introduce me to his contact at the AP boutique, who happened to be another watch enthusiast with an impressive collection of beautiful green-dialed watches. Although the boutique was located in a different city, I made sure to visit them whenever I had the chance. Then one day, the call finally came, just a day before my birthday - by pure coincidence. It was four years after I had started writing to AP boutiques all over the place. I still could hardly believe my good fortune. The watch was a 15510 in stainless steel with a white/silvery dial, which was my preferred color. As a successor to the 15500, it is the same as the 50th anniversary model except the rotor. I have been over the moon ever since, and still am to this day.
Evolution of the Royal Oak 15000 Series
In 1972, AP launched its first Royal Oak, pioneering a new class of steel luxury sports watches. The first reference, 5402, had a diameter of 39mm and was priced at CHF 3650. Due to its large case size at the time, it earned the "Jumbo" nickname. Interestingly, from 1983 to 2005, the Royal Oak models became smaller, with the 36mm 14000 series dominating the offerings during this period. However, the trend reversed with the 15000 series starting in 2005, which increased the case size to 39mm and 41mm.
Understanding the AP scheme for reference numbers can be useful. Let's take my watch, whose reference number is 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08, as an example. The first 5 digits, 15510, represent the model number, followed by the case material, which is "ST" for stainless steel in this case. The next 2 letters indicate the bezel code, and "OO" denotes a smooth bezel. The following number and letters signify the bracelet code and material. Finally, the last 2 digits in the reference number indicate the dial code.
Let's take a closer look at the 15000 series 3-hand models, which form the core foundation of the Royal Oak family.
Ref. 15300ST
39mm, AP Caliber 3120, released in 2005
Dial code: 01 silver, 02 blue, 03 black
Ref. 15400ST
41mm, AP Caliber 3120, released in 2012
Dial code: 01 black, 02 silver, 03 blue, and 04 gray
Ref. 15500ST
41mm, AP Caliber 4302, released in 2019
Dial code: 01 blue, 02 gray, 03 black, and 04 silver
Ref. 15510ST “50th Anniversary”
41mm, AP Caliber 4302, released for 2022 only
Dial code: 01 blue, 02 black, 03 silver, 04 green, and 05 gray
Ref. 15510ST
41mm, AP Caliber 4302, released in 2023
Dial code: 06 blue, 07 black, 08 silver, 09 green, and 10 gray
We can observe that additional colors have been added to the collection, in line with industry trends. It's quite intriguing to track the evolution of the dial designs over the years. While the overall aesthetics and the tapestry dial pattern have remained unchanged, there have been several smaller changes and tweaks. Be sure to note the logos, hour indexes, minute rings, and date window locations.
The date window on the 15400ST is positioned closer to the center, and there is a short hour marker next to it. As you can see, the case size increased from 39mm to 41mm with the same movement. If you flip it over, you'll notice that the movement is slightly small for the case. That's why the date aperture needs to be in this location. With the new, larger movement used in the 15500ST, the date window was moved back to its original position next to the bezel.
We may observe that the 15500ST is the only model here to feature a minute ring, but this design has been changed back in the latest edition. The tapestry pattern now extends all the way to the bezel. The hour indices are longer, making them easier to read. Additionally, the "Automatic" and "AP" logos have been dropped in the latest models. In the 1970s, it was essential to differentiate between automatic and quartz watches, but this is no longer necessary.
The model line has undergone various refinements over the years, resulting in a modern timepiece that still carries the DNA from 50 years ago, making it a stunning example of timeless design.
Unmatched Attention to Details
A watch collector friend who owns a 15510ST gray dial shared with me what he loves most about this watch. “Overall bracelet and case design of the RO. I also like how the Audemars Piguet logo is black polished and disappears when you look at it from certain angles”. I could not agree more.
the Royal Oak is truly a masterpiece in terms of its design and engineering. This watch is a treasure trove of intricate details that will provide endless opportunities for stunning shots. With so many surfaces on the case and bracelet, including some blushed and some polished, every angle offers a chance to capture something unique. Plus, the eight screws on the front bezel and the case back are expertly aligned, adding to the watch's overall symmetry.
One of the coolest features of the Royal Oak is the crown, which positions the AP logo at the upright position when screwed in. This engineering feat is truly remarkable and speaks to the brand's commitment to precision and aesthetics. When viewed under a loupe, the Audemars Piguet logo appears like a 3-D sculpture, further emphasizing the watch's quality craftsmanship.
The color of the date disc matches perfectly with the dial, creating a cohesive and polished look. And the minute markers and "Swiss Made" printings on the dial are impeccable, demonstrating the brand's attention to detail. Overall, the Royal Oak model is a stunning and sophisticated timepiece that any macro photographer would be lucky to capture in their portfolio.
State of the Art Caliber 4302
Audemars Piguet released the Caliber 4302 movement in 2019, and it's truly a marvel of engineering. For a full breakdown of this impressive movement, I highly recommend checking out the article by the Naked Watchmaker. In just ten minutes, you'll gain a deep appreciation for the intricate design and precision of the Caliber 4302.
The predecessor of Caliber 4302 is Caliber 3120, which AP released in 2005. It was a significant milestone at that time as it marked AP's first in-house automatic movement. In 2019, AP launched Caliber 4302, which represents a significant upgrade over its predecessor. It boasts a power reserve of 70 hours, which is almost three full days. It is highly likely that Caliber 4302 will remain the primary caliber for at least another decade or more. We are fortunate to have access to such an advanced caliber early in its service.
The timing accuracy of my Royal Oak was -0.5 seconds per day, measured at 6 positions by a timegrapher.
Dial up: +1
Dial down: -1
Crown up: -3
Crown down: 0
12 up: 0
12 down: 0
Average: -0.5 sec/day
Final Words
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is not just a watch; it is a piece of horological history. Its unique design, created over 50 years ago as a dress/sports hybrid watch in steel, continues to resonate with watch enthusiasts today. The Royal Oak's continued success over the past half-century has been a savior for Audemars Piguet and, arguably, for the Swiss watch industry as a whole.
As the latest addition to the core 3-hand automatic model for the Royal Oak, the 15510ST is one of the best timepieces ever created. It honors the iconic design of the original model while incorporating modern updates and enhancements. Its craftsmanship and attention to detail are exceptional, making it a true masterpiece of watchmaking.
I am incredibly grateful to my friend for introducing me to the brand, and to the AP Boutique for making my dream come true. I look forward to many years of enjoying and cherishing this iconic beauty.
Thank you I’m indeed an addict of horology and I’m fortunate to own many sought after time pieces notable with a logo involving a crown, but after adding this 1st AP to my collection I feel I won’t be giving much wrist time to my Rolex watches anymore. AP is next level man, love the sport and luxury melded into one; truly happy to be able to wear a work of art. I have the same exact watch as you, white dial. What a beauty she is. Got mine sized but AP boutique I acquired it from didn’t have a watch maker rather a SA sized my watch for me. One thing that I’m unsure of is that the AP logo clasp doesn't sit right in the middle of my wrist, so I asked the SA to take one more link off from the 6 o’clock position and add it to the 12 o’clock side. But for some reason he was adamant that the sizing should have even amount of links on both sides. Any thoughts on this? I removed 3 links and she fits well but at the end of the day gets snug. Maybe I am OCD but my Rolex watches the 6 o’clock side had less links when sizing than the 12 so the clasp sits right in the middle of the wrist, and the dial sits more towards the wearer when wearing. Haven’t taken it off since I put it on yesterday, deciding if I want to bring it in again to size it the way I asked originally. Again couldn’t agree with you more you knew this was your grail before owning, but I had to own it and add it to my collection to know I have my grail now as well!
“One of the coolest features of the Royal Oak is the crown, which positions the AP logo at the upright position when screwed in.“
This has always been a pet peeve of mine with so many brands; a small detail, but also hugely appreciated and aesthetically pleasing. I wish more companies would care enough to fix this!