In 2022, Audemars Piguet launched quite a few new Royal Oak models to celebrate the 50 year anniversary of this iconic model line. All the automatic models came with a rotor engraved with a large "50." The one year only models were highly sought-after, especially with the secondary watch market reaching an all time high around March 2022. These anniversary models were so rare, I had not seen anyone wearing one in person.
In 2023, these 50th anniversary models were replaced by regular models with regular AP rotors. Otherwise, the models are the same. On this Thanksgiving Day, I am thankful that I recently got the call for one of the new models - the Royal Oak Chronograph 26240 in a 41mm steel case with a stunning blue dial. It is a timepiece with striking aesthetics, solid construction, an advanced movement, and a very rich history. I’m really over the moon! This is an initial review based on my first impression.
A Brief History of Royal Oak Chronographs
While the first Royal Oak model was introduced in 1972, the first Royal Oak chronograph didn’t appear until 1998. Here are the main models since then:
Ref 25860, 1998-2008, 39mm, Caliber 2385
Ref 26300, 2008-2012, 39mm, Caliber 2385
Ref 26320, 2012-2017, 41mm, Caliber 2385
Ref 26331, 2017-2021, 41mm, Caliber 2385
Ref 26315, 2019-2021, 38mm, Caliber 2385
Ref 26715, 2022-present, 38mm, Caliber 2385
Ref 26240, 2022 only, 41mm, Caliber 4401 (50th year anniversary)
Ref 26240, 2023-present, 41mm, Caliber 4401
We may notice that the Caliber 2385, which is based on a F. Piguet movement Caliber 1185, has been used for most of the AP chronographs. Only in 2022 has a fully in-house chronograph movement 4401 been adopted. This is a major milestone for AP for sure.
Decode the Reference Number
Let’s next explain AP’s naming method for the reference number. We will use 26240ST.OO.1320ST.05 as an example:
26240: 5-digit core reference number
ST: 2-letter case material code (other examples: BC for white gold, OR for pink gold, CE for black ceramic, PT for platinum, etc.)
OO: Separator with no specific meaning
1320: Bracelet code (A or D for strap with buckle)
ST: 2-letter bracelet material code
05: 2-digit dial code
Just for comparison, the reference for the 50th anniversary blue chronograph is 26240ST.OO.1320ST.01, while the current regular model for the blue dial is 26240ST.OO.1320ST.05.
A New, In-House Caliber
All the major watch brands have devoted big resources to develop in-house chronograph movements during the last 10 years or so. It has become a critical measurement and bragging right for watchmaking prowess. We can say that the intensive competition is only good for the watch collecting community.
Audemars Piguet launched 4401, its first ever large production in-house chronograph movement in 2019, with the Code 11.59 new release. It has a flyback function and an instantaneously jumping date mechanism. The three-register dial includes a 12-hour counter at 3 o’clock, 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, running seconds at 6 o’clock, and a 4:30 date window. It is a self-winding movement with a gold openworked rotor and 70 hours of power reserve. It is a vertically integrated chronograph with a column wheel. In summary, this is a cutting edge chronograph without any compromise.
Design and Construction
The Royal Oak design is best known for its octagonal bezel and bracelet that form countless shapes and surfaces. The chronograph model further pushes the envelope with extra external components coming with the two pushers. Lying on the wrist, the latest Royal Oak chronograph is like 3D architecture, a geometric modern art. No wonder this iconic design has endured over 50 years, with improvements along each model upgrade and adding to the appeal.
The dial design has undergone non-trivial changes, compared to the Panda look of the last generation. The color of the dial is uniform now, offering a different aesthetic in blue, black, white, and green. For the blue dial, it is a deep blue called "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" ("Night Blue, Cloud 50"), which was the blue used in the very first Royal Oak model.
I will let the pictures do the talking. Please enjoy these pictures below.
Overall Impression
With a 41mm case, 12.4mm thickness, and steel case and bracelet, the 26240ST is a hefty watch. On the wrist, the weight is satisfactory and contributes to a substantial presence. The bezel, crown, pushers, case, lugs and bracelet include so many surfaces and angles, some polished and some brushed, making the whole watch shine under light.
The operations of the chronograph are confident and fast. The sound from the pushers is music to the ears. It is fun to see the flyback function in action. The pusher guards are not screwed in, so it is convenient to start using the timing function instantly.
The readability of the dial is excellent, with crisp white markers and numerals on the dark blue surface, including the date display. The green luminescent coating makes the hands and hour markers shine in darkness. The date jumps swiftly at midnight. One just cannot ask for more.
Lastly, a friend of mine just published his first ever owner’s review and it is an AP Royal Oak too. Please check out his write-up here: “Review: One Year Later with the AP 15510ST Gray.”
Happy Thanksgiving to all those celebrating this holiday!
Been a while! Happy Thanksgiving!