Review: 2021 La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein
A piece of modern art on the wrist to brighten your day
As a watch enthusiast who got into the watch hobby only 3 years ago, I found the GPHG nominated watches an excellent source to learn about new watch models and interesting brands. I especially like the categories of “Challenge” and “Petite Aiguille” as there are many intriguing yet affordable timepieces here (except that Tudor had won too many times). That was how I first got to know both Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein because of their nominated collaboration piece Le Régulateur at the 2020 GPHG Challenge category. I just love the fun, colorful, whimsical style of this timepiece that would brighten a wearer's mood. I got to know more about Mr. Silberstein the French interior-architect-turned-watch-designer and his vast creations from 1990 to 2012, when he designed and produced watches bearing his eponymous brand. The collaboration with Louis Erard in 2019 was a 178 limited edition that delighted the Alain Silberstein fans and watch collectors. One piece was sold at 2.6 times the list price at a Phillips auction in Nov 2020.
When it was announced on June 8, 2021, just earlier this month, that Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein had teamed up again to create a set of 3 new watches, I knew that I had to act fast. But which one to get? The so-called “triptych” brings together three different timepieces – three signature models, each with its own unique features: La Semaine, Le Régulateur II, and Le Chrono Monopoussoir. I went for La Semaine (“the week”) as I just could not resist the smiley faces.
The LE x AS collaboration La Semaine arrived at my home in California from Switzerland on June 21, merely 2 weeks after the initial announcement. Louis Erard has done a fantastic job managing the launch, compared to some well-known brands who would ship new products many months after the announcement. The timepiece was placed in a very nice wooden box. The colorful dial is the first thing grabbing the attention of anyone who opens the box. On the dial, the hour hand is a red circle with a very visible pointer, the minute hand is a long blue arrow, while the second hand is a yellow pointer with a “S” shape. It seems that only the circular hour hand is a new hand shape that had never appeared in past Alain Silberstein watches.
There is a date window located just above the 6 o’clock mark, while the main attraction of the dial, the oval-shaped day window, is positioned right above the date window. Instead of displaying the day of the week, seven smiley faces are used to indicate the mood of the day, from a sad face on Monday to a happy face on Saturday. The smiley icons tell us that life, work and everything around us are constantly changing and going in circles. Never getting too upset or too discouraged, as things will be getting better, sooner or later. Never being complacent or overconfident, when things are going well, as changes or bad luck may be just around the corner. Hope for the best and prepare for the worst.
While the vivid dial is quintessential Alain Silberstein, the design of the case and lugs for this timepiece is a bit unconventional and surprising. The lug system reminded me of the floating lugs by De Bethune, although it is fixed therefore not as fancy. The wear is very comfortable due to the medium case thickness, soft nylon strap and the titanium lugs with sidebars. The unusual crown is red on the head, which goes well with the red hour hand and the 12 o’clock red hour marker. With 100 meter watch resistance, lightweight construction, nylon strap and colorful dial, this watch is a perfect summer watch.
Inside the transparent case back, we may see the ETA 2836-2, an automatic movement based on the popular ETA 2824-2, with a weekday function added. On the case back, we may see the Alain Silberstein name and “1 of 178” inscription indicating this limited edition production.
Collaborations have been an effective way to produce and market watches lately, from the super high-end Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon by H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F, Bulgari x Tadao Ando collaboration on Octo Finissimo, Rowing Blazers x Seiko Collection, to the micro-brand level Ming and Massena Lab collaboration. The really successful collaborations are those projects leading to second and third hand-shakes. The second Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein collaboration is a showcase of what a win-win partnership could be.
Collectors were certainly excited about this collaboration, which offered another chance to own an authentic Alain Silberstein creation, after the end of his eponymous brand in 2012. The 78 3-piece sets were sold out in 26 minutes, apparently fetched by collectors who appreciated the collecting value of 3 distinct compilations with matching style. The 100 day/date pieces were gone within the first day, followed by the regulator model and the chronograph model. It just felt so great to be one of the lucky 100 watch enthusiasts who grabbed one while it lasted.
Lastly, the watch may not be right for everyone. It is almost an acquired taste that you would need to be open to combining horology with a modern and playful design. If an in-house movement is your main pursue, this ETA powered watch is probably not for you. However, if you are a watch collector and enthusiast who enjoys diversity/variety and likes trying new thing, this is good choice to experience. The value retention will not be too shabby either due to the limited production and Mr. Silberstein’s followers.