Long Term Review: Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar in Stainless Steel Case and Black Dial Reference Q1308470
A decade after its initial release, this model continues to offer the best value for money in the realm of perpetual calendars.
One year ago, on a sunny weekend, I could barely hide my excitement as I made my way to an AMC theater to watch the highly anticipated "Doctor Strange” sequel. Or should I say, I could not hide the watch on my wrist, haha. I was wearing the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel case and black dial. Benedict Cumberbatch, reprising his role as Dr. Strange, sported the same watch in the movie, albeit with a silver dial and closed case back. This stunning piece of horology was prominently showcased throughout the film.
I still recall the day in March 2019 when I acquired this exceptional timepiece in Hong Kong. I spent roughly $16,000 on it, thanks to a generous discount from an authorized dealer. As this marked my first foray into the world of luxury watches priced over $10,000, it's fair to say I was somewhat apprehensive. However, the allure of a finely crafted, ultra-thin complication, coupled with glowing reviews and a firm endorsement from Ben Clymer, proved irresistible.
Fast forward to today, this model (reference Q1308470) remains a member of Jaeger LeCoultre's (JLC) Master Ultra Thin (MUT) collection, now retailing at a hefty $28,500. If you're open to a pre-owned version of this exact model, expect nice savings with asking prices between $14,000 and $16,000. For watch aficionados on the hunt for a perpetual calendar, this continues to represent excellent value. I’m eager to share my journey over the last four years with this extraordinary timepiece.
The Prime Minister of the Watch Brands
In the book "The Watch, Thoroughly Revised" by Gene Stone and Stephen Pulvirent, the authors employ a captivating metaphor to represent leading watch brands within the framework of an archetypal European royal court. They liken Patek Philippe to the king, Vacheron Constantin to the queen, Audemars Piguet to the prince, Jaeger LeCoultre to the prime minister, Rolex to the knight, Breguet to the progenitor of the king, and Lange to the youthful nobleman with potential to ascend to the throne one day.
In particular, they articulate: "Jaeger LeCoultre is the prime minister - shrewd, old, and reliable. Often behind the scenes, for years Jaeger LeCoultre has been helping the companies survive thanks to its manufacturing know-how. Jaeger LeCoultre doesn’t have the largest and fanciest line, but what it does, it does well and wisely”.
JLC's collections boast an array of intriguing models, from the pioneering sports watch, the Reverso, to the alarm watch and the Geographic travel watch, right through to the high complication pieces. It's essential for every watch enthusiast to consider adding a piece of such esteemed caliber, a 'prime minister', to their collection.
The History of MUT Perpectual Calendar
March 2013 - the launch
JLC launched the MUT perpectual calendar collection in SIHH 2013 with 3 models, in rose gold (Q1302520), white gold (Q1303520) and stainless steel (Q130842J). The steel version comes with a silver dial and is offered at boutiques only. Powering these novelties is a new perpectual calendar caliber 868. With this ultra thin caliber, the watch case is measured 39mm in diameter and 9.2mm in thickness. Please see an excellent write-up by Ben Clymer covering this launch.
March 2016 - the black dial
Three years later, a new variant in a beautiful black sunburst dial was released. The reference number is Q1308470 and the specifications remain the same. This is the model I purchased in 2019.
November 2016 - “Doctor Strange”
The incorporation of the JLC MUT perpetual calendar into the Marvel Cinematic Universe film "Doctor Strange" (2016) represents a masterstroke by the JLC marketing team. In the movie, Dr. Stephen Strange, played by Benedict Cumberbatch, is portrayed as a wealthy, successful neurosurgeon with a taste for luxury, which is reflected in his choice of a JLC watch. He can be seen wearing this timepiece during significant parts of the movie. Notably, the watch features in a pivotal scene where it is broken in a car accident, symbolizing a dramatic turn in Dr. Strange's life from a medical practitioner to a mystical arts student.
Moreover, the watch isn't merely used as an aesthetic accessory; it plays a significant role in the storyline and the character development of Doctor Strange, making the product placement more organic and less intrusive. This can lead to a more positive reception from the audience, increasing the chances of the product placement being successful.
The timepiece featured in the movie is the steel model (Q130842J) with a silver dial. Its closed caseback is engraved with a message from Dr. Strange's lover.
2017 - the grey dial
A model of grey dial white gold case was released in SIHH 2017. The reference number is 130354J and this model is discontinued now.
2022 - “Doctor Strange in the Multiverse of Madness"
The silver-dialed perpetual calendar from JLC (Ref Q130842J) was once again prominently featured in the 2022 sequel to Doctor Strange. I thoroughly enjoyed the movie and it was delightful to see this timepiece assume such an integral role.
The Current lineup
As of this writing, the JLC Master Ultra Thin (MUT) collection comprises three perpetual calendar models, including two steel models in silver and black, and a rose gold variant. It can be reasonably assumed that these three versions have remained the most popular over the years. Given the relative scarcity of perpetual calendar watches in steel, these two models hold particular value for watch enthusiasts and collectors.
The 868/1 Movement
Before the MUT Perpetual Calendar's introduction in 2013, JLC had begun shipping the Master Control Perpetual (ref 140.8.80 S) in 1996. This perpetual calendar utilized the caliber 889/440/2, a blend of the thin base movement 889/2 and a perpetual calendar module. Renowned brands such as Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin had previously employed the base movement 889/2, known as an "Ebauche." Interestingly, the dial-side module for the perpetual calendar function was the brainchild of IWC's leading watchmaker, Kurt Klaus.
The Kurt Klaus system is mechanically programmed to ensure synchronization of the date, day, month, moon phase, and year. It features a single pusher to advance all the settings simultaneously. This design simplifies the setting process for wearers of perpetual calendar watches.
The caliber 868/1 is an upgrade of caliber 889/440/2 for use in the new MUT perpetual calendar watches. The IWC module was integrated into the caliber 868/1. On the dial size, the layout was rotated by 180 degree. The year is displayed in 4 digits now, compared to just 2 digits in caliber 889/440/2. The end results are the MUT model is a bit wider (39mm vs 37.2mm) and thinner (9.2mm vs 10.2mm).
The caliber 868/1 consists of 336 parts including 46 jewels. The power reserve is 38 hours. My own timing measurement with a timegrapher showed the following results: dial-up +9, dial-down +11, crown up +1, crown down +6, 12 up +6, and 12 down +2. The average was +5.8 seconds per day.
A friend once asked, "How many years can this watch display?" I discovered the answer from a dial-side diagram of the movement. The last two digits can display a range from 00 to 99. However, the first two digits are limited to showing 20 and 21. Therefore, the furthest into the future this timepiece can accurately represent is the year 2199!
A Lesson
Given the growing popularity of mechanical sports watches, it's easy to overlook the fragility of these micro-mechanical marvels, particularly when dealing with a complex feature like a perpetual calendar. I received a stark reminder of this fragility while adjusting my MUT piece.
After a period of dormancy, it becomes necessary to advance the day, date, and month to reflect the current time. This task is typically accomplished with a single pusher for ease. However, I was advancing the settings too quickly, which led to the day and date falling out of sync.
The date April 3rd, 2022, should correspond with a Sunday. However, as depicted in the image below, the day pointer is incorrectly indicating Monday.
I brought the watch to my local JLC boutique, which assisted in sending it to the service center in Dallas. While the repair was covered under the warranty, I was responsible for the shipping costs. After approximately two months, I joyously received the returned watch.
From that point on, I began treating this perpetual calendar watch with extreme care, considering the hundreds of parts meticulously assembled within its ultra-thin construction. We must remember that taking good care of our watches ensures they will provide us with many years of enjoyment.
Concluding Thoughts
Most perpetual calendars feature a leap year indicator, a crucial detail for accurately setting the date and day. However, leap years are not typically a common concern. The JLC MUT Perpetual Calendar addresses this by displaying the full four-digit year, a design choice that significantly distinguishes this timepiece.
The watch comes with a black alligator strap for a more formal look. To transition it to a less formal aesthetic, I replaced it with a blue strap, which harmoniously complements the blue moon phase disk, instantly transforming it into a more casual timepiece.
After four years of ownership, I regard this piece as an immutable member of my collection. Considering its in-house movement, the watch represents excellent value for money from a brand with a rich history and vast horological expertise. Based on my experience, I happily endorse this timepiece. Plus, it's the watch of choice for Dr. Strange – a fun bonus!
Lovely! Quite a lot of watch for the money, isn’t it - given what you paid (and what it goes for on the secondary market). I’ve tried one or two on myself and always thought it may be one for the collection one day. 👌
If these are still being used in 2199, that would be some accomplishment! 😂