Intriguing and Accessible Sub-Brands and Collaborations from Top Independent Watchmakers
The SpaceOne Tellurium new models in blue and black titanium cases each in 199 LE are available for per-order on December 5th this month. Read to the end for details.
The top independent watch brands, both established and emerging, have continued to attract collectors’ attention, as evidenced by the most recent watch auctions. However, many of these brands are difficult to acquire due to high prices and limited production volumes. Fortunately for watch enthusiasts, more affordable sub-brands or collaborations provide easier ways to satisfy the itch. In fact, it has become a rite of passage for many budding collectors to experience the designs of top creative minds in the indie space, including myself in recent years.
It makes perfect business sense for brands to expand their reach by offering lower-priced, more readily available watches under a different name. The founder of Rolex famously established Tudor in 1926 as a more accessible option. Similarly, Tissot and Omega merged in the 1930s, with Tissot positioned as a more affordable version of Omega.
Below is a list of sub-brands and collaborations created in recent years by some of the most desirable independent watchmakers. Please leave a comment if I’ve missed any!
GRØNE by Grönefeld
The order book for the Grönefeld Principia remains closed, as it has been since September 2021. I was fortunate to place an order in March 2021 and received delivery in July 2023. With an annual production of only 70-80 watches spread across various models, acquiring a brand-new Grönefeld is no easy feat.
On November 5, 2024, the Grönefeld brothers announced GRØNE, a new, more accessible brand aimed at a broader audience. The first model, the Manueel One, was priced at EUR 2,150 (excluding VAT) and limited to a run of 388 pieces.
The design of the Manueel One, including its dial, hands, hour markers, case, and crown, is unmistakably Grönefeld in style. The stamped salmon dial is absolutely stunning, and the limited production of 388 pieces makes it fairly collectible. Unsurprisingly, all units sold out shortly after becoming available for order on November 19, 2024.
This model is powered by a Swiss-made manual-winding caliber SW210, housed behind a closed case back. It offers a 42-hour power reserve and a water resistance rating of 50 meters.
M.A.D. Editions
In June 2021, MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser introduced a timepiece called the M.A.D.1. Unlike an MB&F Machine, it is a more accessible watch developed under a different brand, M.A.D. Editions, tying it to the mechanical art universe established through the M.A.D.Galleries.
I’m the proud owner of a M.A.D.1 Green “Lucky Clover,” which shows I’ve been a fan from the start — even after being unlucky in the raffle three times.
The latest model, the M.A.D.1s, is a slimmer version of the original design. I had the opportunity to try both the blue and purple variants during Geneva Watch Days earlier this year. The M.A.D.1s is undoubtedly better suited for daily wear and always makes for a great conversation starter.
S.U.F Helsinki by Stepan Sarpaneva
Stepan Sarpaneva is a Finnish independent watchmaker famous for his artistic and unconventional approach to horology. His signature designs often include dramatic moonphase complications, distinguished by an expressive and haunting moon face that has become a hallmark of his namesake brand, “Sarpaneva.”
S.U.F Helsinki, a brand created by Stepan Sarpaneva in 2003, was initially intended just for the Finnish market but has since gained a global following. S.U.F Helsinki offers a range of models, with the S.U.F 180 field watches as the entry-level option and the S.U.F x Moomin collection at the higher end.
Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès Collaborations
Raúl Pagès, born in 1983, is a member of the prestigious AHCI and the winner of the first Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. His masterpiece, the Regulator RP1, is entirely handmade and priced at CHF 85,000.
William Massena, a veteran of the Swiss watch industry, launched his brand Massena LAB in 2018. The collaboration between Raúl Pagès and Massena LAB – Pagès’ first – has made his creativity more affordable at a much lower price point.
So far, there have been two collaborations: the Magraph in 2022 and the Absinthe in 2024. Both models are powered by a Massena LAB proprietary movement, jointly designed by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès. While Pagès oversees and supervises the movement's production, carried out by a small network of Swiss watchmakers, he does not handle the production or decoration himself, as he would for his own creations.
The Magraph, a 99-piece limited edition, was priced at $8,675 and has sold out. The Absinthe, also limited to 99 pieces and priced the same, is still available. Notably, Raúl Pagès’ name does not appear on either the dial or the movement.
Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Collaborations
Just a few days ago, on November 28, 2024, the second collaboration between Louis Erard and renowned independent watchmaker Vianney Halter went on sale. The e-commerce edition, limited to 178 pieces, sold out quickly. The retail edition, also limited to 178 pieces, may still be available through Louis Erard’s retail partners. Both models are priced at CHF 4,444.
Vianney Halter’s first creation, the iconic Antiqua, released in 1998, cemented his status as a pioneer of independent watchmaking. His timepieces routinely achieve six-figure results at auctions.
Halter’s first collaboration with Louis Erard in 2020 featured a 178-piece edition priced at CHF 3,500. Four years later, the second collaboration shows improved execution in dial design and color coordination. The salmon and silver dial colors, paired with blue hands, evoke the color scheme of the Antiqua. The asymmetrical placement of the sub-dials and crown adds an engaging and distinctive touch to the design, while the use of rivets completes the Antiqua-inspired aesthetic.
Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka
In the June 2024 Phillips New York Auction, a tourbillon by Hajime Asaoka sold for $361,950. A few months later, in the November 2024 Phillips Geneva Auction, another tourbillon by Hajime Asaoka fetched CHF 304,800. Clearly, Hajime Asaoka’s creations are out of reach for most watch collectors and enthusiasts.
To make his watches more accessible, Hajime Asaoka founded the Kurono Tokyo brand in 2019. All watches are designed by the master himself and assembled in his workshop in Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo. The stunning art deco designs and affordable prices have made these watches highly popular among watch lovers worldwide.
SpaceOne by Theo Auffret and Guillaume Laidet
Last September, I had the opportunity to visit Theo Auffret's workshop in the suburbs of Paris, arranged by Pascal Coyon. To my surprise and delight, the SpaceOne team is housed in the same building. I was able to tour the SpaceOne area and try on a few of their watches.
Theo Auffret is one of the rising stars among independent watchmakers and is part of the exclusive group of top indie makers who attended the IAMWATCH event in Singapore.
Theo Auffret's first watch was Tourbillon à Paris, priced at CHF 114K. His magnificent Tourbillon Grand Sport, a finalist at the 2022 GPHG, was listed at CHF 133K. His collaboration with Petermann Bédat for the 10th OnlyWatch charity auction sold for CHF 240K.
SpaceOne, founded in 2023 by Theo Auffret and Guillaume Laidet, develops space-themed watches at accessible prices. Its first creation, a Jumping Hour watch designed in the shape of a spaceship, is priced at €1,900 for the titanium-cased version. The jumping hours and minutes complication, typically found in much more expensive high-end watches, is powered by a heavily modified movement by Theo Auffret. This makes it a remarkable and affordable piece bearing his craftsmanship.
The second model released by SpaceOne is the Tellurium, which is a finalist in this year’s GPHG Challenge category. A tellurium simulates the rotational relationship between the Sun and planets. In this model, the Sun is at the center, with an Earth that completes one full rotation around the dial over a year. Orbiting the Earth is a Moon that revolves every 29.5 days. This elegant yet realistic depiction of the Sun, Earth, and Moon is both visually captivating and mechanically impressive.
For the Tellurium, Theo Auffret developed a module to implement the Earth and Moon's rotations. While the first edition has sold out, two new iterations, each limited to 199 pieces and priced at €2,990, will be available starting December 5. Visit the SpaceOne website if you're interested in securing one.
Final Words
Owning a piece from MB&F, Hajime Asaoka, or Raúl Pagès is a dream for many watch enthusiasts, myself included. However, the wait can be long or even impossible. Acquiring a piece from one of these sub-brands or collaborations seems like a much more practical and appealing alternative. While these watches often use off-the-shelf movements, they embody the design DNA of the top indie brands. They are a meaningful step toward building a connection with the watchmakers we admire.
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