Interview and Collection Review: Co-founder of The Horology Club, Johnathan Chan

Insights and Advice on Acquiring Enduring Timepieces to Treasure Forever

I first met Johnathan Chan, a Hong Kong-based watch collector and co-founder of The Horology Club, at the 2024 Geneva Watch Days (GWD). We sat at the same table during a collectors’ dinner and visited several booths together at the event.

We hit it off right away, as if we were old acquaintances. First, I had seen Johnathan in a few watch videos on YouTube. Secondly, he’s a genuinely friendly guy who enjoys sharing his experiences and expertise.

I was deeply impressed by Johnathan’s passion and knowledge of the hobby, his extensive connections in the watch industry, and his exquisite collection. Despite being only in his thirties, he has a level of expertise in watches that few his age can match. Plus, as the co-founder of a watch club with over 800 members, he has built an impressive community around this shared passion.

Some watch collectors, myself included, tend to fall in love with a watch too quickly, sometimes even making purchases without seeing it in person — only to end up parting with it later. How can we acquire timepieces that stand the test of time and become permanent members of our collections?

Johnathan seems to have figured it out, and we could all benefit from his experiences and advice.

Here is my interview with Johnathan Chan (@Watchbruh), along with a mini-review of selected timepieces from his collection.

Here are my questions, followed by answers by Johnathan.

#1 How long have you been collecting watches?  Roughly how many watches have you ever owned (including the ones you have sold)? What are the greatest joys you’ve found in this hobby?

I’ve been collecting watches for about 6 years, probably more than 50 watches I’ve owned. Greatest joys have been the people I meet along the way, whether it’s fellow collectors or the creators behind the brands that I’m a fan of. 

#2 What do you enjoy most about collecting pieces from indie brands?

The personal touch and relationships you are able to build with the name on the dial. You get to see the manufacturing process a lot more in detail and it becomes an emotional journey rather than just a commodity. Indie brands are also often able to spend more money on the watch production itself which often leads to pieces of higher quality, including complication, finishing and design.

#3 What’s the longest you’ve waited for a watch, and was it worth the wait?

I’m still waiting on a few pieces which have been a 3-4 year wait. I hope the wait will be worth it! 

Often I find the waiting is the best part.  When you finally own a piece, there’s a honeymoon period, and then you find your mind thinking about the next one, haha.

#4 What is your personal philosophy, strategy, or approach when it comes to collecting watches?

I always tell people to try and not buy watches, because it makes you pause and think about what really matters to you. I also always ask myself before buying a watch how would I feel if I bought this and it dropped 30, 40, or 50% straight away, would I still buy it? If the answer is yes, then I know I truly love it and go ahead.

#5 Can you share how you and your partners started the Horology Club? How has it grown in terms of membership? What do you find most rewarding about running the club?

We wanted to design a watch to commemorate a friendship that led us to going on a trip about 15 years ago. We stumbled upon Austrian indie brand Habring and decided on a design, but they had to have us order a minimum order of 10 pieces. We only had 7 friends who were willing to get in on the project and felt we needed to find the other 3 who would resonate with us. That’s how we came across the idea of starting an open and inclusive community in Hong Kong with a focus on learning about new things. 

We started it just over 3 years ago and now we have more than 800+ members globally. The most rewarding part is being able to meet fun and cool people who all have a shared passion for horology, you get to learn a lot about your own taste and others when you keep an open mind and that’s been an important culture for us.

#6 Your club has released several fantastic collaboration pieces. Do you have a personal favorite? Any interesting stories behind these projects? 

Honestly, it’s extremely difficult to pick a favourite. We always try to push the envelope and do better in every project. There’s countless entities working on collabs nowadays and often it’s a simple dial colour change or some engravings on the back and we feel that’s lacking creativity that the industry needs to see. 

One that’s particularly memorable for me has got to be the THC Cartier Cloche that we got to design as that piece was truly my own design from start to finish. We usually have a bit of a democratic approach to our designs between the 3 of the co-founders but this piece I was quite sure of my vision and being such a fan of Cartier, the Belle Peche that we finally produced was truly a grail piece for me. 

One interesting thing to note from this was the fact that we were told that after this project was produced, they internally decided not to approve any “salmon” dial Cloches so it makes it extra special!

#7 Do you think watches can serve as an alternative investment alongside stocks and real estate?

I’ve been asked this often but honestly my answer is the same. Historically these have always been horrible investments compared to other asset classes. I’ve worked in Finance for more than 15+ years so I think I can be qualified to say the same. Sure, there may be some watches that appreciate in value but that requires having a crystal ball to see the future. 

Most watches don’t appreciate at all. You could say the same about cars, most cars depreciate while some surely rise in value but the way I approach it is one of a true luxury good. Focus on the emotional investment and let the finances take care of themselves. If one is looking to make money from watches, I’d suggest finding another hobby.

#8 If you could have lunch with anyone in the watch industry or the collecting community past and present, who would it be and why?

I’d probably pick Gerald Genta as he’s widely recognised as one of the greatest designers in the watch industry. One of my passions is designing watches and I’d love to pick his brain on where he draws inspiration and convert that into actual timepieces.

#9 If you could give one piece of advice to someone just getting into collecting watches, what would it be?

Don’t do it, haha! Try to delay that first purchase as much as possible to give yourself more time to learn about what you like or don’t like. Get hands on with as many watches as you can, go to auction previews, go meet brands at watch events, watches are often about the knowledge so equip yourself with as much of it as possible before diving into the things you truly find passion in.

#10 What are your top three favorite watch events or shows, and what makes them stand out?

Watches and Wonders - busiest time of the year for the watch world and I know many feel it’s too much of a trade show, everyone is busy. But my perspective is that it’s really an event that’s able to bring everyone to Geneva and you get to meet so many old and new friends. I truly have a great time every time I go even though I have to recharge for a period afterwards!

Dubai Watch Week - extremely well organised and Dubai as a city is great, so the times I’ve gone I’ve loved it. The atmosphere is amazing and all the brands are close to each other, you also get to speak with collectors/brands in an extremely casual setting so this is one of the top events of the year for me.

The Horology Club Anniversary Party - for us in HK, we lack a major horological event, but since last year we’ve been bringing brands to exhibit in Hong Kong like a pseudo HK watch fair. Last year we brought more than 16 brands, mostly indies to exhibit locally to more than 300+ attendees. It’s a great opportunity for collectors to meet brands they don’t normally get to see so it’s an amazing event for collectors in Asia. 

Mini Collection Review

I asked Johnathan to choose a few watches from his collection for this article, and here are his choices.  Please see first Johnathan’s description of each piece, followed by my comments.

Laurent Ferrier Micro Rotor in Tantalum Case Unique Piece - 2023

Johnathan: It’s a fully unique piece that I designed with the brand in 2021. I designed the fully frosted autumn like dial and customised the movement to be sandblasted in rose gold as well as the request for a one of a kind tantalum case. They’ve never made it before and don’t plan to redo it so it’s a truly special piece for me.

Laurent Ferrier has won over the hearts of many discerning collectors worldwide. In addition to its timeless, minimalist aesthetic and horological innovations, the brand’s exceptional craftsmanship – showcased by finely executed hand-finishing – presents the main allure.

With an annual production of around 300 pieces, a Laurent Ferrier on the wrist makes any watch enthusiast stand out at a GTG. But Johnathan’s unique piece will leave everyone in awe. The dial color is so distinct and refreshing that I have never seen anything quite like it. The movement, crafted in rose gold, is so rare for a Laurent Ferrier timepiece – not to mention the tantalum case.

Urwerk x MB&F C3H5N3O9 Experiment ZR012 “Nitro” - 2013

Johnathan: It’s a secret collab watch between MB&F and Urwerk back in 2013 under a new brand name, utilising MB&F’s case and Urwerk’s alternative time telling movement. Inspired by the rotary engines, they produced 12 in silver zirconium and 12 in black zirconium. 

I have the black version and it’s foundational to my collection, as it represents an extremely rare collab piece between 2 of the most important independent watches pioneering alternative watch design.

C3H5N3O9 (the chemical formula for nitroglycerin) is a platform created by Felix Baumgartner, Maximilian Büsser, Martin Frei, and Serge Kriknoff to experiment with concepts, ideas, and creations without the inherent constraints of a luxury brand. So far, only one model, produced in two variants with a total of 24 pieces, has ever been made.

It is a true collaboration between two titans of avant-garde watchmaking, combining the case concept of the MB&F HM4 with the unique time-telling mechanism of Urwerk’s movement design. This remarkable timepiece is a piece of horological history, and Johnathan is proud to own one.

To see this incredible timekeeping marvel in action, check out the excellent video produced by Johnathan on The Horology Club YouTube channel.

Cartier Cloche THC Edition “Belle Pêche” - 2023

Johnathan: As mentioned previously, it’s a Non-Standard Order (NSO) Cartier that I was able to design from start to finish. We produced 10 pieces and I got to have number 1. It’s a grail piece and something that will stay with me for the rest of my collecting journey.

The Cartier Privé collection is a follow-up to the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) and focuses on reviving and reinterpreting Cartier’s most iconic shaped watches. From 2019 to 2024, for example, we saw the releases of the Tonneau, Tank Asymétrique, Cloche, Tank Chinoise, Normale, and Tortue.

All Privé collection models were released in limited editions and are highly sought after by collectors. Now, imagine a special Privé model with only 10 pieces in an exclusive color. That is essentially what the Cartier Cloche THC Edition “Belle Pêche” is – an ultra-rare masterpiece.

Additionally, this club-exclusive watch features some intriguing customizations. Hidden within the railway track is a clever secret signature at the 8, 5, and 2 indices, marked with the letters T, H, and C – a nod to Hong Kong’s telephone country code and the home of The Horology Club.

What an incredible feat for Johnathan and the club to pull off such a special collaboration with a venerable brand! Hats off to this group of dedicated and passionate watch enthusiasts!

Greubel Forsey Double Balancier S2 Convexe - 2023

Johnathan: Wow, this piece is just mind blowing. Ever since I saw it released, this has been at the top of my list of sports watches. The finishing on the piece is second to none and this was to commemorate a decade of my derivatives trading career. The decision was between this and a McLaren and I’m glad I went with the GF!

While attending GWD last year, I visited the Greubel Forsey showroom and had the chance to closely examine two incredible timepieces. The first was the Balancier Convexe S2 with a carbon case, limited to just 22 pieces produced between 2023 and 2026. The second was the Double Balancier S2 Convexe, also in a carbon case, with the same limited production run.

From a technical standpoint, these watches represent the pinnacle of independent watchmaking, where no compromises are made in the pursuit of perfection. Johnathan’s piece is the more complex of the two – the Double Balancier S2 Convexe, except in a titanium case.

I couldn't put it better than Johnathan himself: this timepiece is the McLaren of modern watchmaking, the ultimate horological masterpiece to own!

Final Thoughts

Mark Zuckerberg has taken the watch community by storm lately with the sightings of his new collection of heavy hitters. I trust that he truly enjoys these amazing watches, but I doubt he has the time and bandwidth to research them. Most likely, he acquired the watches from the 1916 Company (WatchBox) with guidance from a seasoned advisor and collector like Brian Govberg.

In my opinion, Johnathan’s impressive collection is of the same caliber as Zuckerberg’s — pun intended — perhaps even more exclusive. Furthermore, Johnathan has invested heavily his time, energy, and financial resources into turning his horological dream into reality and building a thriving community along the way. As a watch lover, I have the utmost respect for such a dedicated collector and enjoy the opportunity to learn from him.

While pursuing his grail pieces, Johnathan has become an active participant in the creation of the final products, working closely with the watchmakers and artisans. With his good taste and knowledge of high-end watchmaking, his ideas and suggestions were welcomed as valuable inputs in the creative process.

Perhaps that is the key to acquiring a watch that a collector will treasure for years to come — having played a part in bringing the ticking mechanical wonder to life.

If you'd like to keep track of Johnathan’s watch-collecting journey, follow him on Instagram at @watchbruh and his club at @the.horology.club.