Interview: An Astute, Passionate Watch Collector Who Named His Son Journe
James Li, known as @journehutong on Instagram, shares the story behind his impressive collection of F.P.Journe, Daniel Roth, and vintage Patek Philippe.
I first started following James on Instagram around November 2020. That year, I had just acquired my first F.P.Journe timepiece — a Chronomètre Souverain with a mother-of-pearl dial — and I was eager for any information and insights about F.P.Journe watches. James' account, filled with stunning timepieces from F.P.Journe, could make any watch collector envious. His posts often featured mini-GTGs and his travels across Asian cities.
I soon reached out to James on Instagram, and we began chatting. I appreciated his insights and wisdom about Journe collecting, which proved very helpful to me. As the years passed, James also began sharing the beautiful Daniel Roth and vintage Patek Philippe watches he had acquired. Since I traveled to Asia occasionally for business, we agreed to find an opportunity to meet in person.
It was not until the end of February 2025 that we finally met in Hong Kong. We chose Ralph’s Coffee at Landmark Prince’s, conveniently located in the same building as the F.P.Journe Hong Kong Boutique. There was so much to talk about that we completely lost track of time.
James brought two watches for me to see. On his wrist was a brand-new Qin Gan Pastorale II, a piece I had heard much about. The other watch was a very special F.P.Journe — so special that he cannot speak about it publicly (thus I cannot disclose much about it either, sorry). James’ full name was engraved on the caseback. It is one of those “if you know, you know” pieces that place James in a totally different league among F.P.Journe collectors.
Before we said goodbye, we went to the entrance of the F.P.Journe Hong Kong Boutique and took a selfie — a fitting memory for two passionate F.P.Journe enthusiasts.
A Very Brief Biography
James was originally from mainland China and went to the UK as a student in 2005. He moved to the US in 2010 to continue his studies and later began working in the finance industry in New York City. In 2016, James relocated to Hong Kong for a new job, and in 2021, he was reassigned to Beijing. He returned to Hong Kong in 2024 and now lives in the beautiful city.
James developed a love for film cameras at a young age and became interested in watches through the influence of his father. Fascinated by mechanical objects, he found himself drawn deeper into horology around 2018 while living in Hong Kong, one of the world's top markets for Swiss watches. He quickly became captivated by the unique aesthetics and technical mastery of F.P.Journe. As James explained, once you acquire a Journe, you inevitably want a second one.
Around 2020, James began thinking about a name for his Instagram account. Knowing that he would soon relocate to Beijing, he came up with the name @journehutong.
Hutongs are Beijing’s ancient alleyways, lined with traditional courtyard homes (siheyuan) dating back to the Yuan Dynasty. These narrow lanes showcase old Beijing’s community life, with some now transformed into trendy destinations while others remain residential.
James chose the name because he wanted something that would reflect Chinese culture. To him, hutongs represent something very local, cultural, and historical, yet at the same time offer a relaxed, authentic feeling. The name also symbolizes family and brotherhood in his eyes.
Compared to Hong Kong, watch collecting in Beijing — especially for independent brands — was much less common. Missing the tight-knit watch community he had enjoyed in Hong Kong, James decided to start organizing meetups in Beijing by gathering fellow watch enthusiasts. In his mind, hutongs, with their casual atmosphere perfect for cigars and drinks, were ideal locations for these gatherings.
James' story would not be complete without mentioning the naming of his son, Journe. As it turned out, the idea came from his wife. What a wonderfully supportive partner! On another note, it speaks volumes about James’ love for his wife — that she embraces his passion for watches so wholeheartedly in return.
For this interview, I prepared a number of questions, and you will find James' answers below. He also selected a few of his favorite watches for a mini collection review.
Questions and Answers
#1 How long have you been into watch collecting? About how many watches have you owned in total, including ones you’ve sold? What do you love most about the hobby?
James: “I actually have an excel sheet to record all the watches I bought myself, which does not include the watches my family bought me when I was younger. The first purchase was an IWC Pilot Flieger Chrono from Ebay in 2010. I used to buy lots of second hand film cameras and lenses on Ebay. So far the count of all watches I have owned is 38.
To be honest, I started buying watches as an expensive toy, and later as a luxury accessory. To me, I wanted something mechanical, vintage/classic, and a good brand. To some extent, that may still be the case today.
But what makes me fall deeply into this hobby, since 2018 I would say, is the people I meet. Through watches I met so many good friends outside work, and we can talk about nothing else but watches. It gives me a break from everything else in life, and gives me energy and passion, almost like a power bank for me. Apart from this, it’s the knowledge, history, in horology that I love to learn about, and also the pure beauty of these objects from aesthetics, mechanical and architecture design perspectives.”
#2 You’ve built an impressive F.P.Journe collection over time. Can you share how you acquired your first piece, and what kept you motivated to continue the journey?
James: “It was quite typical: I saw pictures of Journe watches on IG, found a local dealer immediately (Watchbox HK), went in and saw the real thing, fell in love, asked my wife for permission (I brought her that day with me to see it, on purpose I guess), checked my bank account and calculate if residual can cover next month’s rent, then pulled the trigger. It all happened within two days I think.
And the magic about Journe watches is that you will not be satisfied with just one, like some brands, you want to get more because they are all similar in taste and design principles but unique in their own ways.
On top of this, the Journe collector's circle is a group of special people.”
#3 Which F.P. Journe piece took you the most time and effort to acquire — and was it worth it?
James: “All Journes need time and effort to acquire now, vintage or new. The longest one I waited for took 4 years. I think it taught me to be patient as well, because you need to be in many things in life. And actually through the wait, your thoughts get refined, you learn new things, and when you get the watch eventually you appreciate it more, if it’s the right one.”
#4 Do you wear all of your F.P. Journe watches regularly, or do you have a few safe queens?
James: “I treasure all my watches, but I wear all of them regularly. If I don’t wear some of them, it means I don’t like them that much and I should let them go. My target is always less but better.”
#5 If money were no object, what would be the next F.P. Journe timepiece you’d love to add to your collection?
James: “My top Jounre on my wishlist is the Tourbillon Souverain heart of ruby dial. I love the ruby and dark grey color combo, and the opening tourbillon window. To me it’s one of the most beautiful Journe timepieces ever made, and also one that can be worn daily.”
#6 What other independent watch brands do you own? Which brands excite you the most, even if you don’t own any of their pieces yet?
James: “Daniel Roth and vintage Patek. I only count those that I own more than one piece. Because I think if you only want to own one piece from the maker, it’s not a good enough brand.
There are many new brands and young watchmakers coming to market now, it gives us a lot more variety and interesting options. I think it is in a good direction in general. There are of course good and not so good, but the most important thing I look for is talent in both design and innovation, just like FP.”
#7 If you could have lunch with anyone in the watch world who is still alive today, who would it be and why?
James: “I would have to meet all of them in person to answer this question. You can like the watches but dislike the watchmaker, or the other way.”
#8 If you could give one piece of advice to someone just getting into collecting watches, what would it be?
James: “Learn as much as you can before buying anything. Buy less but buy better.”
Mini Collection Review
Here are the five watches James selected for this article, with all photos taken by him. Remember his other hobby — cameras? James is also a top-notch photographer.
#1 F.P.Journe Octa RDM from 2001
James: “This is the first and foundation model of FPJ’s entire automatic movement (Octa calibre) line, and even the complicated FFC introduced in 2021. The movement architecture and dial design set the canvas of all subsequent automatique models and are still used after 24 years to this day and more years in the future I can imagine, because it’s so perfect that not much need to be changed significantly.
This particular piece that I own is also a prime example of the original Journe watches, in platinum case and an early yellow gold dial with the shimmer finishing and patina from aging.”
In 2021, François-Paul Journe marked the 20th anniversary of the Octa movement with a 99-piece limited edition of the Automatique. This release was a faithful remake of the original 2001 model — the very same piece found in James’ collection. Its recreation underscores the enduring significance of the original design to François-Paul himself.
The RDM (Réserve de Marche) denotes the power reserve indicator, a signature feature of this timepiece. The dial displays a maximum power reserve of 120 hours, though in practice, the watch can run for up to 160 hours on a full wind. The stated 120-hour mark represents the guaranteed duration for optimal chronometric performance.
James’ example belongs to the Brass Collection, produced between 2001 and 2005, when movements were crafted from brass. As François-Paul later transitioned to rose gold movements, these early brass iterations have become particularly sought after by collectors.
#2 FP Journe Resonance RQ from 2024, Black Label
James: “This is the latest version of Journe’s signature creation using the theory and phenomenon of resonance. It is the upgrade (and possibly the ultimate) version from the original Resonance invented in 1999, adding a differential to transmit power to two independent “movements” separately, and a remontoir d’egalite on each side to ensure constant and linear force output throughout the power reserve. The result, in theory, is a more consistent and less interfered system providing higher timekeeping accuracy.”
The F.P.Journe Black Label Collection is even more exclusive than the highly desirable Boutique Collection, with each boutique receiving only two Black Label pieces per model per year. As François-Paul has phased out all limited editions, the Black Label series now stands as the brand’s only de facto limited edition offering.
The F.P.Journe Chronomètre à Résonance is already produced in very limited quantities due to the complexity of its construction. A Black Label Résonance, like the one in James’ collection, is even rarer — a truly fantastic piece to own.
The original Résonance, reference RN with Caliber 1499.2, was produced from 2000 to 2019. In 2020, F.P.Journe introduced a new version, reference RQ with Caliber 1520. James' Résonance was delivered just before Christmas 2024. Congratulations to James on acquiring such a remarkable piece!
#3 Patek Philippe 3971E Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from 1990
James: “PP ref 2499 is no doubt one of the holiest grails of watch collecting. But the problem for most people is that they are too rare and too expensive. Its successor, ref 3970, has all the genes and beauties of 2499 and is much more approachable.
I suggest everyone, if you like vintage complicated PP, study this model as much as you can and tell me what you think. But do it quickly, as prices are catching up.”
A perpetual calendar chronograph is often considered the ultimate complication — the end game for many collectors. James has truly secured a stunning example here.
While the Patek Philippe reference 3970 was produced from 1986 to 2004, James’ specific variation belongs to the so-called "second series," made between 1987 and 1990, with a total production of approximately 650 pieces. His 3971E, with an open case back instead of a closed one, comes from a special batch of about 150 to 200 pieces, created in or near 1990. James was fortunate enough to acquire one, and the condition of his example is simply outstanding.
James offered valuable guidance to anyone interested in rare Patek Philippe models that seem poised for strong future growth. For an excellent deep dive into the Patek Philippe reference 3970, please refer to Tony Traina’s article here.
#4 Daniel Roth C2117 Perpetual Calendar from c.1995
James: “Daniel Roth was the star and master in the early days of independent watchmaking in the 90s. He brought back Breguet designs and created the Breguet wrist watches we see today. He then created his eponymous house and made a good collection of beautiful and classic watches in his signature case shape. Unfortunately his business was not successful, but I see him as an icon of independent watchmaking.
The Perpetual Calendar model was a joint project with Philippe Dufour, with a goal to make the first instantaneous perpetual calendar module. The first version (my piece) with the day/month disks was actually not successful right away due to insufficient power from the base movement for the instantaneous jump for all the disks, then they changed the disks to small hands in the second version to finally achieve their goal.
I prefer the first version due the history behind this “unsuccessful” attempt by the two masters, and also aesthetically it’s more beautiful to me.”
What a fascinating story James shared with us from the early days of modern independent watchmaking. The close collaboration between two masters, Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour, lives on in this exquisite perpetual calendar.
Personally, I find the dial design of this watch especially appealing. It offers much better legibility than many conventional perpetual calendar models. The large date sub-dial and the clear day and month apertures make it easy to grasp all the key information at a glance. From a readability standpoint, I prefer this first version over the later models, which feature much smaller sub-dials for the day and month.
James' passion for this intriguing watch perfectly captures the spirit and joy of watch collecting.
#5 Qin Gan Pastorale II from 2025
James: “Now the last one, not the least of course, is my dearest and proudest piece. It is handmade by the best Chinese watchmaker in Chongqing, China. To me this piece stands for the highest level of watchmaking that can be achieved in China, and it is not any less than the highest level of watchmaking in Switzerland or anywhere else. Keep an eye on the upcoming Chinese watchmakers and brands, you will not be disappointed.”
James was wearing the Qin Gan Pastorale II when we met in Hong Kong. While the No. 01 Pastorale II was delivered to a very important collector, the No. 02 went to James in January this year. He was excited as he handed me the watch for a closer look, and I was ready with a loupe in hand.
The dial was beautifully executed, with slim blued hands standing out against a refreshing cream-yellow background. Large, sleek Roman numerals were harmoniously paired with a logo rendered in the maker's own Chinese calligraphy. The elegant design of the dial was so calming that I could have stared at it all day.
The movement architecture was equally balanced and pleasing. The hand-finishing was simply exquisite and astonishing, with brilliant shining chamfers and several finely decorated interior angles.
Qin Gan clearly represents the highest level of classic watchmaking in China today. The glowing praise from James, a savvy watch collector, only confirmed what many top media outlets have already reported. It seems James has found China’s own Philippe Dufour.
An Astute, Passionate Watch Geek with Many Interests
James is an astute watch collector who is always ahead of the curve, a realization I came to as I followed his Instagram and picked his brain from time to time. He acquired many F.P.Journe watches well before the brand exploded a few years ago. He also recognized the craftsmanship and value in Daniel Roth pieces and vintage Patek Philippe models like the 3971E. Now, he has fully embraced Qin Gan, the trailblazing independent watchmaker from China.
James is remarkably modest, especially given the depth of his knowledge. He seems to have all the answers, but you have to ask — he is not someone who likes to show off. However, he is always willing to share what he knows and to help others, which explains why he has gained a loyal following among watch lovers both online and in person.
During our meetup in Hong Kong, James gave me a tote bag printed with a drawing of the F.P.Journe Resonance dial. He designed and commissioned it himself. James enjoys collecting merchandise and brand swags, particularly from Leica and F.P.Journe. When he felt the quantity and variety of official goods was lacking, he decided to create his own under his Instagram label, JourneHutong.
James designs items that his friends and family can use daily, such as tote bags, clothing, cigar holders, and ashtrays. His children mostly wear clothes made under his own label. An avid tennis player, he has even launched a separate line of clothing and bags under the name “JourneHutong Tennis Club”.
What a passionate watch aficionado with wide-ranging interests, refined tastes, and generous spirit! Naming his son Journe feels only natural for someone who truly embraces the finest things in life and lives each day to the fullest.
I will end this writeup with a few photos of James’ creations under JourneHutong 儒纳胡同, all taken by – you guessed it – James himself. Yes, 儒纳 is the Chinese name for Journe. For more pictures and watches, follow James at @journehutong.
Beautifully documented insight into a discerning and focussed collector. Isn't that something we all yearn to be?
That was great, thanks. That black label resonance is so so good!
Thanks for the link to Tony's article on the 3970- I had no idea that the first series sapphire caseback was its own reference!