Geneva Watch Days Recap: My Watch Safari, Part 2
After posting my initial writeup on Geneva Watch Days (GWD), I realized I’d left out several remarkable watches. Some of the new releases I encountered were under embargo, while others simply didn’t make it into the first article. So here’s Part 2 of my watch safari at this premier annual event dedicated to watch enthusiasts and collectors.
And yes, I’ll also reveal the one watch I brought with me to GWD!
Kollokium Project 01 - Variant “d”
One of the highlights of attending GWD was mingling with key figures in the watch industry, which far exceeded the usual tradeshow experience. At a collectors’ dinner, I had the pleasure of meeting Amr Sindi for the first time – a person I’d long followed on Instagram (@thehorophile).
Amr is now better known as a co-founder of Kollokium, a watch project that’s been creating quite the buzz, especially after becoming a finalist in the GPHG Challenge category. At the dinner, all eyes were glued to Amr’s wrist, where he wore a prototype of an upcoming Kollokium release. The vivid green hand of the watch was absolutely mesmerizing.
Fast forward to October 1st, when Kollokium unveiled the third release of Project 01 Variant “d” – and it sold out in no time. This limited edition of 299 pieces featured a striking green theme, encompassing the luminescent hand and 468 applied cylindrical markers.
Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour “Boutique Edition”
Another highlight was getting an exclusive look at the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour 'Boutique Edition', courtesy of Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Managing Director of Fears, who was wearing the watch himself.
Earlier in 2023, Fears teamed up with Christopher Ward to create the Alliance 01 Jump Hour – a limited edition with a deep burgundy dial, celebrating the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. This intricate timepiece quickly caught the attention of watch lovers everywhere, and fans eagerly awaited the next iteration of this intriguing design.
Their wait ended on September 25, 2024, when Fears unveiled not just one, but three Jump Hour models: two regular editions in black and coral, and the green “Boutique Edition”—the very watch I saw on Nicholas’s wrist at GWD. This special green model is available exclusively at the Fears Bristol Boutique or online via the Fears Owners’ Club.
Czapek Antarctique and Promenade
I’ve been a big fan of Czapek ever since they launched the sporty Antarctique in May 2020, right at the onset of the pandemic. Despite the uncertainty, Czapek pressed forward with development and quickly built a strong following. It was an absolute delight to see and handle their current offerings at the showroom during GWD.
What impressed me most was the new Antarctique and Antarctique S, now featuring stunning aventurine dials. Considering Antarctica is one of the best places on Earth for stargazing, it feels incredibly fitting to have a miniature sky on the dial. I could gaze at this mesmerizing dial all day long!
Another new product line I had the pleasure of experiencing firsthand was the Promenade, a stylish, slim dress watch collection with a 38.5mm case. The sub-seconds dial is positioned at 4:30, elegantly drawing the eyes to the center of attention.
Both the Czapek Antarctique and Promenade share the same in-house movement, the Caliber SHX5. The only difference is the positioning of the seconds hand. For watch enthusiasts, it’s fascinating to compare their movements and observe the extra gears required to position the seconds hand centrally, as demonstrated in the picture below.
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition
Claude Greisler, master watchmaker and co-founder of the revitalized Armin Strom, unveiled a heavyweight timepiece at GWD to mark the 15th anniversary of the brand’s manufacture. This release is a significant iteration of the renowned Resonance Collection. Measuring 39mm in diameter and just 9.05mm in thickness, it showcases a major slimming down of an exceptionally complex complication.
The movement features two independent barrels and gear trains, allowing the display of two different time zones. Armin Strom’s resonance mechanism averages effectively the timing of two regulators, resulting in enhanced accuracy and a more robust performance.
Behrens Dark Knight “Batman” Tourbillon
Geneva Watch Days was a truly international event, featuring quite a few watch brands from outside of Switzerland, such as Germany, America, Belgium, France, Australia, and China. For the Chinese brand Behrens, it was their debut at GWD, and they were determined to make a lasting impression.
Hosted by watch media veteran Suzanne Wong, the Behrens press conference unveiled their new timepiece. The Dark Knight Tourbillon, limited to 200 pieces and priced at $6,390, was launched to celebrate the 85th anniversary of the beloved Warner Bros. character, Batman.
The watch features several playful Batman-themed design elements, including luminant-painted Batman logos, an eye-catching 3D day/night indicator, and a power reserve indicator. It’s a fun and striking timepiece, especially in the dark.
SpaceOne Tellurium and Jumping Hour
SpaceOne was founded by three watch industry insiders: Theo Auffret, an emerging independent watchmaker; Olivier Gamiette, a renowned designer of cars and watches; and Guillaume Laidet, CEO of Nivada Grenchen. This is reminiscent of Kollokium, another brand started by three veterans of the watch industry. It's no surprise that both SpaceOne’s Tellurium and Kollokium’s Project 01 are finalists in the 2024 GPHG Challenge category—we’ll soon find out which one comes out on top next month.
SpaceOne’s space-themed model, the Tellurium, is limited to 300 pieces. In horology, a tellurium is often incorporated into high-end complications to display the Earth's orbit and its relationship with the Moon and Sun, blending functionality with artistry. SpaceOne shook up the status quo by introducing this feature at an accessible price point of €2,990.
As for the Jumping Hour collection, ten models have been released so far. While the base movement is off the shelf, the jumping hour mechanism was developed by Theo Auffret's workshop.
With all these models completely sold out, the SpaceOne team is busy delivering them to the fortunate new owners. But don't despair—the team is already working on a third model, a world time watch. The 3D-printed mockup looked quite promising to me. Let’s continue our journey of space exploration in search of timepieces truly worth the wait.
The AHA Tantalum Bracelet
At Geneva Watch Days, a new Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA) was formed by Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro. Their mission is to support and promote independent watchmaking outside of the established, conventional structures. Fittingly, the three brands shared a suite on the 4th floor of the Beau Rivage Hotel during the event.
As AHA’s maiden project, they released a tantalum bracelet, designed by Ming and manufactured by Josh Shapiro. I had the chance to try it on, and let me tell you — it was incredibly heavy. Tantalum is notoriously difficult to mill, making the bracelet a showcase of state-of-the-art craftsmanship. It’s compatible with all tantalum watches produced by the three founding brands.
To commemorate the founding of AHA, a special gift was created: a tantalum cube. The six faces of the cube feature the logos of AHA and the three founding brands, the AHA website URL (aha.watch), and the symbol for tantalum (Ta). Only 50 pieces were made, with the engraving done by Josh Shapiro’s daughter.
I extend my sincere wishes for the success of Ming, Fleming, J.N. Shapiro, and the Alliance they have founded.
A Club Watch at GWD
I brought just one watch with me to GWD, a bit wary after hearing stories of potential issues at Swiss customs. To pick something unique, I opted for the flying tourbillon SB06-12 CT12, created for the CronotempVs Watch Club by Sartory Billard. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Most people at the event had never seen the SB06 in person, and I received plenty of compliments. The mother-of-pearl (MOP) dial and the transparent sapphire bridge, which is still quite uncommon today, certainly added to its allure.
During a visit to Josh Shapiro’s suite, I spotted a fellow collector sporting an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain with a striking blue MOP dial. I borrowed it for a quick wrist shot alongside my SB06—two MOP beauties side by side!
Memorable Watch sightings
Here are some additional memorable watches I spotted during Geneva Watch Days. First was the Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans, which looked stunning from both the front and the back—it definitely lived up to the hype. Next was the Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem, winner of the 2021 GPHG Audacity Prize. It was mesmerizing to watch the hour and minute indicators appear with the push of a button.
Then there was a Patek Philippe Grand Complication Celestial, a watch worth at least half a million USD, I guess. At any moment, its owner can admire the exact configuration of the night sky in the northern hemisphere, complete with the apparent movement of the stars and the phases and orbit of the moon. The ruby gem setting only added to its rarity and preciousness.
Lastly, I saw two incredible timepieces from Greubel Forsey. The first was the Balancier Convexe S² with a carbon case, limited to just 22 pieces to be made between 2023 and 2026. The second was the Double Balancier Convexe, also in a carbon case, with the same limited production run. From a technical standpoint, these watches represent the pinnacle of independent watchmaking, where no compromise is made in achieving perfection. For me, they were simply a joy to admire, showcasing the immense creativity and skill of the engineers and artisans.
Some really cool pieces man. Thanks for sharing!