Eight Highly Sought-After Current Production Watches at the $40K Retail Price Range
$40K (USD) is a lot of money by any standards, but at this price level, there are fantastic horological gems to be had, including some of the highly coveted models from the top independent watchmakers. Many watch collectors and enthusiasts start out with affordable watches to experience this hobby. With knowledge gained through hands-on experience and deep research, new targets at higher prices will inevitable emerge. Selling some watches in the collection to fund the new purchase is one obvious way to go, which is what I have been doing actually. If you are sitting on some nice gains in the stock market, it might be time to take some profits and transfer into something that are tangible and will bring you happiness. Chosen wisely, the watches may retain and increase their values in the long term, and some of them may even become family heirlooms.
The watches on this list are highly sought-after and very hard to get even with the hefty price tags. The reasons are simply the exceptional craftsmanship and the low production volumes compared to demands. Each of the watches is quite special in their own ways. Based on Chrono24 data, most of them are trading at above retail prices, which is a reflection of strong demands. Under such circumstance, acquiring just one of them at retail price would be a feat that requires determination, patience and skills.
Building relationships with brand boutiques and ADs are quite important for getting what you like. Furthermore, being active on social media and expanding your network of connections are useful too. You will make contacts with fellow watch-lovers and industry professionals who may offer tips and introductions that lead to acquisition of the watches you are in love with. Being patient is a much needed virtue and some of the watches may be acquired by pre-ordering and getting on the waitlist for 1-2 years. Lastly, luck plays a non-small part in getting a desirable watch too. Please see my article on how I walked into a Rolex AD by chance and got a new Submariner.
The watches are listed in the alphabetical order below. All can be found on the brands’ current collection pages on their website. The suggested retail prices are either from the official sites or from the reviews by watch media. The prices may keep changing due to the yearly price increases and the currency exchange rate fluctuations.
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in white gold ($43,500)
The Odysseus is a new sporty luxury watch collection from the top German watchmaker launched in 2019. A lot has been written about the blue dial Odysseus in stainless steel which has been a smashing success. Lange produces about 5500 watches in total a year normally which is quite small (only 3800 in 2020 due to Covid-19 as reported). The Odysseus pieces are basically nowhere to be found. The stainless steel model fetched 3x retail price at a recent auction.
In 2020 Lange released a white gold Odysseus in grey dial, which is just as stunning and versatile as the SS model. For collectors interested in Odysseus, the white gold version may be the only way to go. The availability is better than the SS model but it is still quite tough due to low volume of 100 to 200 per year. The best bet is to go through a boutique rather AD and it helps if you are a Lange owner already. Please find more info at the official product page.
Cartier Tank Cintrée anniversary 150 limited edition ($29,900)
It may not be common knowledge that Cartier is the third watchmaker in terms of annual revenue four years in a row (2017-2020), after Rolex and Omega. There are so many iconic models in Cartier’s lineups, it is hard to choose. The Tank Cintrée anniversary 150 limited edition from the current production really stands out and is the one to consider. This timepiece just looks like the very first Cintrée launched in 1921 in terms of design, material and dimensions. Furthermore, you save $10K with this choice in a list of $40k watches. It might be a bit late to acquire this piece now, as the news was out in January this year already and collectors have reacted enthusiastically thanks to the recent rise in Cartier’s popularity. Please find more info at the official product page. An alternative would be the the Tank Asymétrique watch at similar price if the LE Cintrée is sold out.
De Bethune DB-27 V2 Titan Hawk ($45,000)
De Bethune is considered by some watch aficionados to be one of the best independents today. The recently released DB Kind of Two Tourbillon with two dials is a masterpiece showcasing the brand’s incredible creativity. The entry level offering in De Bethune’s correct collections is the DB-27 V2 Titan Hawk. The annual production volume of De Bethune is about 160 and the total volume of DB-27 V1 and V2 since 2012 is no more than 100. Exceptional craftsmanship plus extreme scarcity are what excite collectors. This was my consideration when I pulled the trigger to get a salmon dial DB-27 V2 last year (please see my review). There are other color choices as well including silver, blue and green dials which simply make each watch ever more rare. Please find more info at the official product page.
F.P. Journe Octa Sports In Titanium ($39,000)
With a $40K budget, there are a few options in the F.P. Journe current production such as the Boutique Edition Chronometre Souverain. A more intriguing choice perhaps would be the Octa Sports in Titanium from the Linesport collection. The color for the dial is either anthracite (dark grey) or yellow which is pretty daring. The Sports models from F.P. Journe were considered sleepers a few years ago but have become very desirable now. In the sea of integrated sports luxury watches, a yellow Octa Sports piece that is not in SS does stand out. The watch is quite light thanks to the titanium case and the aluminum movement, which makes it a perfect company for jogging and hiking. Please find more info at the official product page.
Grönefeld 1941 Principia ($38,100)
Named by “Principia” the book authored by Sir Isaac Newton, the Grönefeld 1941 Principia is the gateway to the highly regarded watchmaking realm of the Dutch Horological Brothers. In 2019, one year after its release, the Principia was among the prestigious finalists in the GPHG men’s watch competition. The movement finishing is stunning and to die for. The yearly production volume of the Principia is about 30, so it is super limited. If you order one today, the wait time is about 18-24 months. Principia is the first automatic timepiece from Grönefeld and each timepiece is accompanied by a fancy watch-winder. One nice thing is that you may pre-order your piece from the official website or ADs and select the case material, dial and strap combination. Please find more info at the official product page.
Laurent Ferrier Micro-Rotor Square ($44,000)
Mr. Laurent Ferrier was with Patek Philippe for 37 years and involved in turning the drawings of the Nautilus designed by Mr. Gerald Genta into reality. In 2008, a top independent brand was born bearing Mr. Ferrier’s name to pursue a venture in watchmaking. As a representative piece and the first watch in stainless steel, the Laurent Ferrier Micro-Rotor Square would be the perfect choice, especially if you adore impeccable finishing and clean dial design. It is such an engineering wonder both technically and aesthetically, that it won the 2015 GPHG Horological Revelation Prize. Please find more info at the official product page. If the square shape is not quite your cup of tea, there is a classic micro-rotor model in circular case with the same movement and price.
Patek Philippe 5212A Weekly Calendar ($35,480)
The Patek Philippe 5212A is one of a kind timepiece for many reasons: 1) a dress watch from Patek in SS is very rare; 2) the weekly calendar is a rare complication; 3) the use of hand-writing letters and numerals on the dial is unprecedented; and 4) five hands on the central axis is difficult and rarely done. I’m very fortunate to own this watch and have written a review in this newsletter. This watch is a reminder that Patek is still the king of watchmaking who continues to innovate and create ingenious wonders. Please find more info at the official product page.
Rolex GMT-Master II in White Gold and Meteorite Dial ($39,900)
The iconic “Pepsi”, the Rolex GMT-Master II in SS with blue and red bezel, is reasonably priced just a bit below $10K. Rolex sold 810K watches in 2020 with an average retail price of CHF9,822 or USD10,580. It is amazing that the highly sought-after “Pepsi” is priced at only the average price of all Rolex models. While it is extremely hard to get a ”Pepsi”, there are actually many of them out there, based on Rolex’s annual volume. If you want exclusivity and have 4 times the budget, the Rolex GMT-Master II in White Gold and Meteorite Dial would be worth your consideration. A “Pepsi” with precious metal case and even more precious dial can be the flagship of any collection. It is the ultimate travel watch in the era of SpaceX, Blue Origin and Virgin Galactic. Please find more info at the official product page.
Now, we have it, not so much as a buying guide, but a fantasy collection. I came up with the selection one by one, without thinking of them as a whole. But looking at them as a collection, there are quite a few interesting observations. Among the 8 models, 4 are from big and established companies, while 4 are from the elite independents who were founded within the last 20 years. 3 watches are sporty models, with two of them in white gold and one in titanium. 4 models are simple 3-handers without even the date. There is only one complicated complication: the splendid weekly calendar. The Cartier timepiece is the only manual wind of the group, while the Laurent Ferrier piece uses a micro-rotor. There are a variety of colors, which is indicative of a emerging trend. Speaking of shapes, a curved and elongated case and a square one are the standouts of the bunch. It is indeed a dream collection with a variety of characteristics, innovations, histories and intrigues.