Coveted Timepieces: Collecting the Allure of Mother-of-Pearl Dials
Elegance, Craftsmanship, and Timekeeping Artistry Unveiled
There was an old saying that the first person to eat crabs must be very brave. Similarly, the first watchmaker to use the iridescent inner shells of oysters as watch dials must have been a genius. I am a sucker for Mother-of-Pearl (MOP) dials, perhaps because I was born near the sea and I love the ocean and swimming. The luminous colors of MOP dials that seem to change when seen from different angles make watches so much more special and collectible.
Mother-of-pearl, scientifically termed nacre, has an alluring, shimmering iridescence. Found inside mollusk shells like oysters and abalone, its shining surface plays with light, the colors dancing and shifting with the viewer's angle. This optical effect comes from the intricate layered structure - thousands of alternating microscopically thin layers of aragonite, a crystalline calcium carbonate, and conchiolin, an organic protein. As light penetrates and interacts with these microscopically thin layers, it undergoes multiple reflections and refractions, creating an ever-changing palette of hues that shifts with the viewer's perspective.
Mother-of-pearl can come from a number of different mollusks, including the Western Australian White MOP, the Indonesian White MOP, and the Tahitian Black MOP. Some of the highest-quality white mother-of-pearl comes from the Pinctada family of pearl oysters. The prices of MOP are not as high as those of pearls, as pearls are much rarer. However, the processing for MOP for use as watch dials is quite challenging, so only specialty factories may take on the job.
While MOP dials are traditionally used for ladies' watches, many brands now use this natural material for men's and unisex models with bigger case sizes. However, these models with MOP dials are often released in limited numbers as special pieces. The rarity makes MOP-dialed watches quite collectible. In this article, I will list a number of men's and unisex watch models with intriguing MOP dials.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Soirée
We have to start with Lange 1 Soirée, as it was a model line dedicated to MOP dials. Introduced in 2001 and discounted in 2009, these pieces are quite special, even among many models within the Lange 1 family. Soirée means an evening party or gathering, typically in a private house, for conversation or music. What a more enchanting wristwatch to wear to such an event than the Lange 1 with a MOP dial?
Sinn U1 S Mother-of-pearl S
Staying with German brands but moving from elegant dress watches to rugged tool watches, Sinn offers a 44mm diver that combines capability and beauty. The Sinn U1 MOP has an impressive 1,000 meters of water resistance, encased in German submarine steel with a hardened surface treatment. This 300-piece limited edition is sold out on Sinn's website but remains available through authorized dealers. The all-black case and bracelet pair well with any outfit. However, the real showstopper is the stunning mother-of-pearl dial.
Having owned Sinn's previous 41mm U50 MOP model, I can wholeheartedly recommend this watch. The shimmering dial elevates this capable diver, making the U1 MOP far more than just another tool watch. It's a distinctive limited edition for collectors and diving enthusiasts alike.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Reference 25686
Over the span of over 50 years, AP has produced a diverse range of Royal Oak models, each adorned with distinctive dials. Notably, between 1990 and 1998, a limited run of 299 Royal Oak perpetual calendars was crafted, boasting an array of case materials. These exceptional timepieces, identified by the reference number 25686, featured exclusively MOP dials. One of these rare Ref 25686 watches went to auction in May 2022, ultimately selling for CHF 403K.
Rolex Daytona Reference 116519
Rolex is perhaps the brand that has produced the most number of watches with MOP dials. It was hard to choose just one model to include in this list, as there are so many excellent examples. However, I would like to highlight the Rolex Daytona reference 116519, which was produced around 2005. The combination of the Tahitian black MOP dial and the white gold case is simply stunning. This is a truly one-of-a-kind timepiece that is out of this world!
Gerald Genta Retro Classic
This stunning timepiece from Gerald Genta's Retro Classic line circa 2000 features Eastern Arabic numerals on a luminous white MOP dial. The complications include a jumping hour and retrograde minutes, providing visual interest. Housed in a 36mm white gold case, it suits both men's and women's wrists.
Ulysse Nardin San Marco GMT Ref 223-22
For a fun, vacation-ready watch, look no further than the Ulysse Nardin San Marco GMT. With its dual time function, you can keep tabs on home while away exploring the Caribbean or Hawaii. Two sleek buttons allow quick and easy time zone adjustments.
At the 2 o'clock position sits an unusually placed but highly visible big date window. The luminous white MOP aligns seamlessly with Ulysse Nardin's iconic anchor logo, while evoking the shimmering surface of the ocean.
Kudoke 2 with White MOP Dial
With some watchmakers providing customization options, one can simply request a mother-of-pearl dial. That's exactly what I did when collaborating with Kudoke on my Kudoke 2 timepiece. The result was a one-of-a-kind creation with a dial that dazzles. Please refer to my full review for more details.
Arnold & Son HM Horological Society New York
This unique timepiece was generously contributed by Arnold & Son to the 2021 charity auction held by the Horological Society of New York. The MOP dial showcases an extraordinary depiction of one of New York City's most iconic scenes: the Manhattan Bridge viewed from the vantage point of Washington Street in DUMBO, Brooklyn. The bridge, an architectural marvel that began serving traffic in 1909, is elegantly ensconced by red brick edifices, capturing a vibrant tableau of urban life. This intricate artwork was meticulously hand-painted onto the MOP dial, rendering it a truly unique masterpiece for the wrist.
Patek Philippe Ref 5077P-069 with cloisonné enamel and black Tahitian MOP
Another stunning example of the artistry possible with mother-of-pearl is the Patek Philippe Calatrava wristwatch, reference number 5077P-069. Only 20 of these platinum timepieces were crafted in 2012, featuring a cloisonné enamel peacock painting perfectly placed on a black MOP dial. Created by Patek Philippe's renowned Rare Handicrafts Group, this exquisite artwork symbolizes spirituality, integrity, freedom, guidance and protection. This timepiece was sold at auction for HK$812K in November 2021.
F.P. Journe
Mr. F.P. Journe's affinity for MOP is unmistakable, evident in his choice of this organic marvel for numerous watch creations. Renowned for his artistic sensibilities, Journe entrusts his own dial artisans with the intricate craftsmanship required to expertly cut and polish these delicate MOP dials. Notably, an exclusive Boutique Nacre edition further underscores his appreciation for this natural material.
Presented here are three distinct models, each adorned with a unique MOP dial — captivating shades of pink, serene blue, and dazzling black. Notice that the MOP dials were intricately cut into irregular shapes that complemented the complex dial designs. This triad of timepieces showcases Journe's mastery in harnessing the elegance and diversity of MOP, delivering an unparalleled visual spectacle within the realm of haute horlogerie.
Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down in Platinum and MOP Dial
Mr. Ludovic Ballouard is a top independent watchmaker, a member of the prestigious AHCI. One of his masterpieces is “Upside Down”, which features a novel way of indicating the time. Instead of a traditional display, the watch gives you time in a unusual way through a highly complicated movement. All numerals are presented upside down except fot the present hour which is displayed right side up along with a dot. There is a hand for the minutes and a subsidiary dial for the seconds.
Remarkably, the intriguing timepiece featured here is an Upside Down with blue MOP. The central dial, sub-seconds dial, and all twelve hour discs showcase an array of distinct blue hues, collectively crafting a dial that truly mesmerizes the senses. The harmonious interplay of these varied shades of blue not only adds depth but also evokes a sense of wonder. How could one possibly surpass this level of artistry and allure?
Missing a Mother-of-Pearl watch in your collection?
You chose some stunning examples, wow!
Lovely mop dials that I’ve not seen before!