Collection Review: Watches from Non-Swiss Brands
Including three incoming timepieces to arrive in 2023
Switzerland is no doubt the mecca of modern watchmaking. Yet for watch lovers, it is fun to collect watches from other countries too. Browsing through the "Wristwatch Annual" by Peter Braun, we may see watch brands from different corners of the world. For fans of independent watch brands, the choices are even greater.
Today, watchmaking is a global business. Many non-Swiss brands use suppliers in Switzerland for key components. The designs of the watches are where the international brands shine. The history and culture of the home country are reflected in the horological creations. An example coming to mind is the Sarpaneva x Moomin from S.U.F, a Finnish watch brand. I don't own this amazing piece, but I have seen one in person and simply could not put it down.
Now, let's go over what I do own in my collection. There are a few incoming pieces that I cannot wait to feature them here too. I will group these watches by country and there are six counties in total.
United Kingdom
This watch is to me one of the most appealing novelties of 2022. The first batch of 300 limited edition pieces in blue sold out in 7.5 hours. The second batch of 300 pieces in green sold out in 2 hours and 13 minutes. What is so special is the hour chime complication, which is approaching high horology. The watch was offered at a very reasonable price of $3595 with a leather strap. It is the C1 Bel Canto from Christopher Ward based in Berkshire, England.
The dial side design of the Bel Canto reminded me of the AK-06 from AkriviA. It is a poor man's AK-06. It is a poor man's minute repeater. I pulled the trigger and luckily managed to get in the 7.5 hour window. My piece in the blue dial will arrive around Feb 10, 2023. This will be my first British timepiece and what a smashing piece of art and science!
Germany
I received the most compliments for these two German watches, either in person or on the Instagram. The reason is simple. They are stunning pieces of art and they are so rare to be seen. Turning them over, the movements are even more eye-catching!
The first is the Hektor in green dial from Lang & Heyne. It is part of the inaugural release of a sporty collection from a brand known for classic dress watches. There were 33 pieces released in blue, grey and green each, followed by 5 pieces in salmon for the Japan market. The proprtion is perfect for me and it is very comfortable to wear. Please see my full review here. There is a piece for sale here with some nice close-up pictures.
Another piece is a Kudoke 2 with a white mother of pearl dial from a brand not far from Lang & Heyne in Dresden. This is an even rarer piece than the green Hektor, as it is a special order. There are likely less than 8 pieces made with the exact dial as of this writing. Mr. Stefan Kudoke is an AHCI member and well-known for his engraving work. Watch out for their Kudoke 3 release hopefully soon! Please refer to a full review of the MOP K2 here.
Japan
Few watch enthusiasts don't have experience with Seiko watches in their time with the hobby. There are just so many fantastic models to choose from with very accessible prices. I love Seiko's collaborations with Rowing Blazers so much that I bought two of them. One was from their first release in 2021 and the model number is SRPG53. This "Color Block" edition is not strictly limited, but not available any more.
The other piece was from their second and recent collaboration. The model number is SRPJ59 and it is a 888-limited edition. The lime green dial is so vivid that it stands out immediately on the wrist. Now, this piece has not sold out at the present time. You are in luck if you are interested in getting one - see here.
China
Speaking of watches made in China, the Seagull 1963 chronograph may come to your mind. My piece here is much less common and super interesting! A. Lange & Sohne and Blancpain used to make a complication called "carrousel". The entire dial rotates in tandem with the minute hand, completing one revolution a hour. I received this as a gift and the brand is "Shanghai". It is a fun watch and certainly a conversation piece! Find an introduction of this amazing piece here.
Netherlands
You guessed it, it is the Horological Brothers from the Netherlands! The order book for the entry-level Gronefeld Principia has closed for a while now, but I was lucky to place an order in March 2021. I selected the steel case with a turquoise dial and a blue/orange strap. It will arrive some time next year, fingers crossed. I do know my movement number which is around 150. There are not really that many Principia pieces out there.
France
Cartier watches are known for their daring designs and I found the Pasha particularly intriguing. I love it so much that I added two pieces to my collection, one new and one pre-owned. Like many of Cariter's iconic designs, Pasha has a fascinating origin and a striking look. The design with a grille was attributed to our time's watch design titan, Mr. Gerald Genta. What could we ask for more? To delve further about these two pieces, please refer to my articles here and here.
I have incoming watches from two prominent independent watchmakers in France. One will bear the name of Sartory Billard. It is a club watch and I cannot disclose any further information on this project at this point, sorry.
Another piece will be from Mr. Pascal Coyon, a watchmaker based in southwest France. Mr. Coyon created a buzz with his first chronometer powered by Caliber 1900. An example of this very limited production was auctioned off about one year ago. Mr. Coyon launched second generation chronometer with Caliber 19. There are a various dial design options and many choices for the hands. I look forward to my piece some time next year! To learn more, here is an excellent review here.
Last Words
Each year, more and more non-Swiss brands are participating and winning in the GPHG, the industry’s Oscar Awards. Like collecting stamps, it is wonderful to have watches from different countries. I still miss many countries so I have a ways to go. Italy, Spain, Austria, Finland, Israel, South Korea and America! What are some of your favorite international watch brands and their top models? Drop me a line in the comment area. Take care and enjoy the hobby!
Holy smokes, so much good stuff to look forward to! Exciting stuff! :)
Wonderful collection! And so pleased to see you got the Bel Canto. I missed out, but am on the list for the batches they’re releasing next year...can’t wait to read your review when yours arrives!