Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS Salmon Dial Ref 298623-3001: A Captivating First Impression

Discovering the Sensational Novelty that Has Set the Watches and Wonders Abuzz

Like many watch enthusiasts worldwide, I eagerly followed Watches and Wonders from March 27th to April 2nd, with my eyes glued to my computer monitor and mobile phone. The watch media and chat groups inevitably raised the question: what were the top watches of this year? A consensus emerged, highlighting the stunning Alpine Eagle 41 XPS with a salmon dial. It definitely earned my vote. Yet, I couldn't help but wonder: when would I have the chance to see one in person?

I could hardly believe my luck. Anne from the Chopard Boutique in Costa Mesa was visiting the San Francisco Bay Area, bringing along the recently unveiled Alpine Eagle 41 XPS. On April 28th, just before the Windup Fair in San Francisco, a collector friend and I had the opportunity to admire this exquisite timepiece up close. We tried the watch on, examined the L.U.C movement, scrutinized the dial with a loupe, and took numerous wrist and macro shots. We were like children in a candy store.

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm XPS

The Alpine Eagle is a luxury sports watch collection introduced by Chopard in 2019. While it received positive reviews, none compared to the buzz generated by the latest salmon dial model. Some people appreciated the dial color, others the absence of a date function, the premium L.U.C movement, or the attractive price. In my opinion, the winning formula consists of: "St. Moritz" + "Alpine Eagle" + "XPS" + "L.U.C". Allow me to elaborate.

St. Moritz 1980 - 1986

Founded in 1860 by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in Sonvilier, Switzerland, Chopard has been under the ownership of the Scheufele family from Germany since 1963. It is one of the few family-owned Swiss watch brands with an extensive history. In 1980, Chopard launched its first-ever sports watch line, the St. Moritz, in steel. This elegant design, paired with the industrial look of screws on the dial, followed the trends that emerged in the 1970s. Inspired by the active winter sports in the resort community of St. Moritz, the watch reflected the evolving tastes of the time. However, it's possible that the St. Moritz collection was still slightly ahead of its time.

The Chopard St. Moritz launched in 1980

Alpine Eagle 2019 -

In 2019, a classic was reborn as the spirit of St. Moritz transformed into the Alpine Eagle. This modern, sporty-chic luxury watch targets a new generation of watch enthusiasts. My first encounter with an Alpine Eagle took place at the Chopard Boutique in Shanghai during a business trip in 2019. The captivating dial, inspired by an eagle's iris, was a sight to behold. The rhodium-plated seconds hand, with its counterweight shaped like an eagle's feather, assumes the form of an arrow.

Following the initial launch, additional models featuring different dial colors, case sizes, and materials were released. A chronograph was introduced alongside models with high-frequency movements. Anne also brought some of these models for us to see. The Alpine Eagle family offers a versatile range of variations, making them ideal for various occasions.

Alpine Eagle 41mm automatic

Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF 41mm

Alpine Eagle Chronograph 44mm

Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon 41mm

XPS

Now, let's discuss what makes the latest Alpine Eagle stand out and sets the Watches and Wonders abuzz. First, it is an XPS.

So, what does XPS signify in the model name? I couldn't find an explanation in any reviews of the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS by the watch media. After searching on Google and getting no results, I tried the latest tool in town, ChatGPT. ChatGPT 3.5 told me it stands for "eXtra Precision System," while ChatGPT 4.0 suggested "Extra Plat Sport." However, I couldn't verify these claims.

Eventually, I contacted Anne, who provided the correct answer. XPS stands for "extra plate petite seconde" in French, meaning "extra flat/slim small second." I searched Chopard's website and found eight current models with the XPS designation in their names, as showed below. As we can see, these ultra-thin models feature a sub-second dial at 6 o'clock. All except one have no date windows, and all but the Alpine Eagle are dress watches.

The 8 current Chopard models with an XPS designation

It appears that the Alpine Eagle's designers decided to incorporate the slim and elegant essence of the XPS into their creation. Combined with the eagle iris motif, the dial of the Alpine Eagle XPS distinguishes itself from earlier models with a center second hand. The difference in case thickness is quite remarkable, as demonstrated in the comparison below.

Same 41mm case size, but big difference in case thickness.

L.U.C Movement

In the early 1990s, when very few brands were manufacturing their own movements, Chopard—under the guidance of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele—initiated a program to produce their own movement in Fleurier. In 1996, the brand proudly introduced the L.U.C 1860 watch, housing their first in-house movement, the Caliber 1.96. This milestone gave birth to a remarkable collection of watches, embodying Chopard's watchmaking expertise, and laid the groundwork for numerous developments. The collection was christened L.U.C in homage to Louis-Ulysse Chopard, who founded the company in 1860 in Sonvilier.

For the first time, an Alpine Eagle (AE) model is powered by a premium L.U.C movement, the Caliber L.U.C 96.40-L. Entirely developed, produced, and assembled in Chopard's Haute Horlogerie workshops and chronometer-certified by the COSC, the L.U.C 96.40-L mechanical self-winding movement is based on the first caliber developed by Chopard Manufacture in 1996.

It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and has a 65-hour power reserve, thanks to Twin Technology—a system invented by Chopard that combines two coaxial barrels. The latter represents a remarkable technical feat, given the extreme thinness of the movement, which is just 3.3 mm thick. This is what makes the ultra-thin design of the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS possible. This movement, bearing the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, is wound by means of a 22-carat gold micro-rotor.

Notice the Genève seals on both the case and movement

The only "downside" of an L.U.C movement is the time and effort dedicated to creating one. After all, the L.U.C calibers are largely produced by hand at Chopard Manufacture. It has been reported that only 60 pieces of the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS will be produced per year. It is not a limited edition, but the availability is limited by production capability. This timepiece will undoubtedly be highly sought after.

Dial Finishing

Let's enjoy some delicious macro shots taken by my collector friend (IG: watchsymmetry).

Last Words

With the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS salmon dial, Chopard undoubtedly has a winner on their hands. The success formula can be summarized as follows:

• Category: Sporty chic with integrated bracelet in stainless steel

• History: "St. Moritz" from 1980

• Slim and elegant design: XPS, no date

• High horology: Genève Seal and COSC certification

• Color: Trendy salmon dial

• Watch resistance: 100 meters

• Scarcity: Approximately 60 pieces per year (limited by production)

• Price: Competitive at $22.5K

Most importantly, the watch looks stunning on the wrist and is very comfortable to wear. It is highly recognizable in meetings or on the beach, at least among watch enthusiasts. The timepiece has won the hearts of both watch collectors and media alike.

The success of Lange's Odysseus sports watches has elevated the desirability of all other dress collections. Could the Alpine Eagle watches do the same for Chopard? We will have to wait and see, but I’m optimistic and rooting for the brand. One thing is certain: the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS will bring big smiles to the fortunate fews who will own one in the coming years.