A Visual Chronicle of F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Family 2005 - 2020
Showcasing unique design language and unbounded imagination of a foundational product line
The Chronomètre Souverain (CS), together with the high flying Chronomètre Bleu (CB), is often regarded as an entry level model for F.P. Journe, based on the suggested retail price. The CS indeed has been a gateway for many collectors longing to learn more about the brand and start collecting F.P. Journe. As the name suggests, CS is a very high precision timing machine with twin barrels in parallel for constant force, free-sprung chronometer balance, and an elegant power reserve indicator that is not available on the CB. It is a foundational product line that defines the brand’s design language and never-ending obsession with timing precision. Furthermore, some CS pieces had achieved 6 figure prices in recent auctions, surpassing CB. The CS is a fascinating timepiece that has been in production since 2005 and its unrivaled importance and hidden value have been discovered slowly but surely as time goes by.
While the calibre inside the CS family has remained the same stunning, manual wind 1304, there are many versions of the dial, case and strap/bracelet being produced over the last 16-17 years. The variations may be summarized in the following:
Case size: 38mm, 40mm
Case materials: platinum, rose gold, stainless steel, titanium
Dial materials: silver, rose gold, mother-of-pearl, Damascus steel
Dial making technique: guilloche, raised numerals
Bracelet/strap: leather, gold bracelet, platinum bracelet
I will endeavor to list all different versions of CS timepiece ever exist in the order of production starting year and include photos whenever possible to create a visual chronicle for this stunning watch family. It has been a fun and intriguing research project for a Journe fan whose only Journe watch is a CS Nacre. Many thanks to the F.P. Journe team for granting me access to the press area at their official site.
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Very First Chronomètre Souverain @ 2005
We are in luck as the very first example of CS model with case number “No 001-CS” was just sold in the “Geneva Watch Auction XIII” taking place May 8-9, 2021 with an incredible final price of $181K. Just for reference, the price for the platinum case CS was $24,200 in 2005, which implies a x7.5 boost. The watch has a 40mm case in platinum, with a silver guilloche dial and blued hands. The watch was accompanied in the auction by a F.P. Journe guarantee card stamped by Montre Journe Japan K.K. and dated December 24, 2005. It is remarkable to know that this exact model is still currently in production.
First CS in Rose Gold @ 2005
The CS is available in rose gold case as well and this model is still in production today. The price in 2005 was $19,500 for this piece.
GPHG Men’s Category Winner @ 2005
The CS was a hit and immediately recognized by industry peers at GPHG as it won the Men’s Category competition in 2005. Seven year later, the CS was again awarded “Best Men’s Watch 2012” by the European Watch of the Year Award.
Anniversary Tokyo Boutique @ 2005, 20 pieces
This is a 20-piece limited edition CS made for the one year anniversary of the F.P. Journe Boutique in Tokyo. The elegant and gorgeous timepiece was crafted with a polished titanium case and a dial in ruthenium-coated guilloché silver.
De Boulle Edition @ 2007, 8 pieces
A very exclusive 8-piece limited edition CS was made in 2007 for De Boulle, a Dallas based authorized dealer. The silver dial is in dual-tone of grey and white, while the case is in platinum. In a Christie’s online auction ending on Dec 10, 2020, one of the 8 piece was sold at an impressive $100K, a record for CS at that time.
Boutique Edition @ 2007
In 2007, F.P. Journe launched Boutique Edition CS, exclusively sold through its own boutiques and “Espace” - dedicated showrooms at retail partners. The number of Boutique Edition pieces produced every year was strictly controlled, so these pieces are quite rare. The signature of the Boutique Edition watches is black dial matched with rose gold case. The Boutique Edition CS was discontinued in 2018.
Black Label Edition @ 2008
The Black Label Edition CS is even more exclusive as it is sold to existing Journe owners only with very limited production run. The signature here is black dial matched with case in platinum. This ultra formal timepiece is still in production today.
“FP to George Daniels my Mentor 2010”
When Mr. Journe decided to present a gift to his mentor and master watchmaker George Daniel in 2010, he selected a Chronomètre Souverain. This piece of unique and very special platinum CS was a personal celebration of the admiration of one great contemporary watchmaker for another. As we may see in the photo, this special piece with case number “No 707 - CS” was inscribed with “FP to George Daniels my Mentor 2010” on the balance bridge.
As of this writing, at the Christie’s “An Exceptional Season of Watches” auction taking place on May 22, 2021 in Hong Kong, this very precious timepiece was sold at an eye-popping $418K, a new record for CS.
Nacre Collection @ 2012
The most mysterious dial belongs to the CS Nacre first released in 2012, as part of the Boutique Collection. There are two versions, with blue mother-of-pearl accompanied by blue guilloche in the center and platinum case, and pink mother-of-pearl accompanied by pink guilloche in the center and rose gold case. The CS Nacre timepieces are still in the production lineup today, but only available through Boutique and Espace with very limited quantity. For example, the total number of CS Nacre in rose gold ever made since 2012 is less than 25 from a reliable source.
Gold Dials with Raised Numerals @ 2014
At the 10th anniversary of the CS line, a set of new dials were released that presented a totally different look. Unlike the the traditional guilloche silvered dials, the new dials are entirely made of gold. The most amazing thing is that the numerals are carved out from the same piece of gold, thus effectively “raised” from the dial. Both platinum case and rose gold case are available, matched with leather strap or bracelet in platinum or rose gold. These models are available today as part of the Classique Collection.
Stainless Steel Case @ 2015
Both 40mm and 38mm case CS pieces were produced from the beginning, but in 2015, F.P. Journe decided to end the 38mm models. As a farewell to 38mm, Journe released a set of five of his most iconic watches in stainless steel cases, including the CS. A total of 38 sets were produced, a nod to the 38 mm case size. Needless to say, the use of steel and small number of sets would make these watches extremely rare to find.
Havana Dial @ 2017
In 2017, a special warm-colored dial matched with caramel alligator strap were introduced for the exotic “Havana” CS models. Both platinum case and rose gold case are available. The dial was developed by F.P. Journe’s own dial maker, by mixing gold and ruthenium through many trials and errors to produce the specific Havana color. The CS Havana is still part of the F.P. Journe’s current product offerings and a favorite among many collectors.
Chronomètre Holland & Holland @ 2017
The Chronomètre Holland & Holland was the outcome of a collaboration between F.P. Journe and Holland & Holland, a high-end gunmaker based in London. Two over-hundred-years old gun barrels were used to make 66 dials for this set of very special timepieces, released in 2017. It was a partnership of two brands with exquisite craftsmanship and superior quality. There was an application process to acquire this ultra exclusive timepiece.
Strictly speaking, the Chronomètre Holland & Holland doesn’t belong to the CS line. It is nevertheless powered by the same calibre 1304, as seen in the photo, but with the power reserve indicator mechanism and small second mechanism removed. The result was an unblocked view of the beautiful texture and pattern on the dial. It seems fitting to include this rare piece as extended CS family to celebrate the creativity of the artisans who made this happen. Please refer here for intriguing writeup and videos about the making of this one of a kind timepiece.
Dubai Boutique Edition @ 2020, 99 pieces
Lastly, this stunning green beauty was launched in 2020 to celebrate the opening of F.P. Journe Boutique in Dubai. The green color was chosen as it is a symbol for fortune in Middle East. This 99-piece limited edition in platinum case was probably even harder to acquire then the 8-piece limited edition back in 2008, as F.P. Journe in 2020 was so much more famous and highly sought-after. Coincidently, the green dial and green strap set a new trend as so many brands released watches in green colorway in the 2021 Watches and Wonders, one year after the green CS.
Through the 15 dial and case variations of this foundational Chronomètre Souverain collection from 2005 to 2020, we witness the tireless pursue by Mr. Journe and his highly skilled watchmakers in achieving the horological excellence. The results were nothing short of spectacular. It was estimated that a total of 1700 to 1800 CS timepieces had been produced and left the F.P. Journe atelier so far which came out to about 100 watches a year. These wonderful work of art and micro-mechanical masterpieces are cherished by watch collectors and enthusiasts all over the world.
What will the Chronomètre Souverain continue to evolve from here into the future? It is fun to make some guess and prediction here. First of all, the CS Nacre collection may be phased out in the near future, following the path of other models in the Nacre collection. As 2024 will be the 20th anniversary of CS line and is approaching quickly, it is highly likely that we may see brand-new dial designs for CS to commemorate this historical milestone. Based on the pace of CS models being introduced in the past, I’m sure that Journe watch lovers and collectors will have a lot to look forward to in the future.
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