A Memorable Visit to Naoya Hida & Co. in Tokyo
The application window for this exclusive Japanese indie brand's 2024 production opens today, May 13th, and lasts for four days.
Before my March visit to Tokyo, Japan this year, I consulted a few friends who are avid watch collectors to inquire about any watch brands that I could potentially visit. Two seasoned collectors suggested Naoya Hida, a young indie brand about which I didn’t know much. "Contact them through their website or on Instagram; you won't regret it," they assured me.
I submitted my request and swiftly received a reply from Mr. Hida himself, providing detailed instructions and a map. The brand sets aside every Friday to accommodate prospective clients, which worked out perfectly for my schedule.
During the flight to Tokyo, I reached out in a WhatsApp group to see if anyone had prior experience with Naoya Hida watches. Eric Ku, the founder of Loupethis, responded promptly: "Yes, I own 5 of them lol. Tell Naoya I said hi! Just got my 4A and it is so good." It was a reassuring confirmation that I had indeed made the right plan.
A Brief Intro of the Brand
Mr. Naoya Hida, the founder, boasts a rich history in the watch industry, having held pivotal sales and marketing positions at esteemed Swiss brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and F.P. Journe in Japan. His vision is centered on crafting contemporary timepieces that encapsulate the timeless aesthetics of the 1930s to the 1960s era, combining the meticulous handiwork of skilled artisans with cutting-edge technology.
Establishing the brand in 2018, Mr. Hida enlisted the expertise of Mr. Kosuke Fujita, the accomplished watchmaker, in 2020, followed by Mr. Keisuke Kano, the skilled engraver, in 2022.
As a fledgling workshop, Naoya Hida saw notable growth, selling 25 watches in 2020, 40 watches in 2021, 70 watches in 2022, and 100 watches in 2023. Orders were fulfilled in the year of purchase and the subsequent year, without the notorious long waits in recent memory.
The collection include the following model lines:
Type 1 series: 37mm manual wind with sub seconds dial at 9 o’clock
Type 2 series: 37mm manual wind with center seconds
Type 3 series: 37mm manual wind with moon phase
Type 4 series: 36mm manual wind with center seconds
Type 5 series: 33x26mm rectangular manual wind with sub seconds dial at 6 o’clock
Meeting Mr. Hida at the Showroom
On a beautiful day amidst the early cherry blossom season in March, I arrived at Naoya Hida & Co.’s showroom and workshop nestled in Tokyo’s Chuo-ku district. Mr. Hida, along with a newly joined watchmaker, awaited my arrival.
Coincidentally, a watch collector couple from Denver, USA had also scheduled an appointment at the same time during their vacation. Surprisingly, we discovered a shared connection - both of us had acquired watches from Jeremy Oster, an authorized dealer for indie watchmakers in Denver.
Mr. Hida warmly greeted us, recounting his journey of founding the brand before presenting the exquisite timepieces.
Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, these watches truly come to life when seen up close. The 37mm and 36mm case sizes are perfect for dress watches and adorned my wrist flawlessly.
Among the collection, the Type 1D-1 dual-tone model captured my heart with its timeless appeal. Crafted with yellow gold and stainless steel, adorned with yellow gold hands, and featuring hand-engraved Breguet Arabic numerals on a German silver dial, its elegance was undeniable.
The Type 3 model, with its captivating moon phase indicator, also left a lasting impression. Mr. Hida revealed a hidden secret - two different faces were depicted on the moon phase disc, but only one had been revealed publicly on their website or Instagram, with the other reserved for the owner’s gaze.
We were given a glimpse of the unique D-buckle system, reminiscent of the classic Cartier buckle but equipped with convenient micro-adjustments for added comfort. A distinctive feature is the personalized fitting process, requiring a visit to the Tokyo showroom or trunk shows for precise measurements. I got my measurements ready for possible future use, 105mm and 57mm.
While the movements were discreetly housed behind closed casebacks in all these watches, Mr. Hida hinted at future releases featuring more intricate movements showcased through transparent casebacks.
2024 Production Plan
On May 2nd, Naoya Hida announced the production plan for 2024 with the introduction of a brand new Type 5A. Therefore, there are in total eight models in the current lineup, as shown below (the numbers in the parentheses are planned annual volume):
Type 1D (20 pieces)
Type 1D-2 (5 pieces) (new)
Type 1D-3 (3 pieces) (new)
Type 3B (15 pieces)
Type 3B-1 (5 pieces) (new)
Type 4A (10 pieces)
Type 4A-1 (15 pieces)
Type 5A (10 pieces) (new)
The NH Type 1D-3 marks the brand's debut with a yellow gold case embellished with hand-engraved decorations by metal engraver Mr. Keisuke Kano. It's truly a sight to behold! The dial boasts 60 minute markers crafted from yellow gold, perfectly complementing the three elegant hands of the same material.
Introduced in 2022, the NH Type 3B quickly became a fan favorite with its captivating moon phase complication. This year, a new iteration, the Type 3B-1, garners attention with its dual-tone case and yellow gold hour/minute hands, accompanied by a moon phase disc crafted from lapis lazuli.
The latest new model, the NH Type 5A, not only marks the brand's venture into rectangular timepieces but also stands out as their first model featuring a transparent caseback. The image below showcases a prototype movement ornamented with beautifully arranged bridges and Geneva stripes on them. The final production model promises even greater refinement in terms of finishing and detailing.
The Application Process
Being a small indie brand with a notably low production volume, Mr. Hida places a strong emphasis on understanding his clients thoroughly. The annual allocation process begins promptly after the announcement of each year’s production. For 2024, the application window spans from May 13th to 16th.
The application form, accessible on the official website, requires basic information along with one straightforward yet crucial question: “In 300 characters, please tell us why you wish to purchase our watch.”
The Armoury, Naoya Hida’s distributor with stores in Hong Kong and New York, employs a distinct lottery-based system. This year’s allocation lottery will be active from May 16th to the 18th.
Final Thoughts
With 83 Naoya Hida watches to be allocated for the 2024-2025 production cycle, these pieces are quite exclusive by any measure. The odds of securing an allocation remain unknown, yet Mr. Hida's priority is ensuring that his creations find homes with genuine aficionados.
An emerging indie brand thrives on the support of passionate enthusiasts. If you admire the watches but seek further validation before applying, you can turn to an article penned by the brand's superfan, Eric Ku.
Should you decide to pursue an allocation, I extend my best wishes for receiving positive news from Mr. Hida next month!
